Equipment buying for beginner technophiles...

Sparks · 29-07-2008 12:35PM #1

Hi folks,
Been shooting recurve for the last few months with club gear and then my own beginners kit (Internature wooden riser & limbs, 70"/28lb). But most of the stuff I'm shooting with is still club stuff. I've already started to succumb to the online buying of kit (technophilia + relatively low prices for kit compared to target shooting = serious amount of self-control required). I don't want to go completely off the rails and wind up buying fancier equipment than Renegade_Archer's, but I think there are some things I think I need to go buy to progress at a faster rate than I have been. So far, that's meant basic stuff - sights, finger sling, stabiliser (that last one was R_A's idea). I've resisted spending the entire paycheque on bow stands and bow cases and a 27" innocarbon riser. But I figure that arrows are kinda basic and so buying them isn't really "giving in to the technophilia"

So I've gotten to the stage where 9 out of 10 of the easton jazz 1816s I'm using land in the blue or better at 30m (we don't have an indoor range in WTSC yet), and I'm starting to think that buying my own arrows instead of club ones (and probably a cheap cartel button as well) would be a good idea (especially as it would mean I could tune the bow).

Easton's charts recommend using 2314 spines, and the Jazz and Blues lines don't seem to get there so it's X7s; but folks in here have been saying those are pretty much indoor-only arrows. The prices of the others though.... :eek: I mean, a dozen X7s for about €100 I was kindof surprised by (hey, you get 500 air rifle pellets for €12 these days

), but the outdoorsy arrows - a dozen ACC's for €140, Navigators for €185, FMJ Navigators for €196, ACE's for €254 and X10s for €291? Yikes. No wonder you see such high scores from folks, they literally cannot afford to miss...

Ergo, two questions to you guys:

is it actually worth it to move up to the better arrows at this stage, and if so, how far up?
What is the recommended progression through equipment buying? (For instance, in air rifle we'd normally start off with small personal bits of our own kit like gloves and glasses and move on to trousers, jacket and eventually the most expensive bit, the rifle itself. How's it run in archery and over what time period/skill level?)

ruiner · 29-07-2008 01:10PM

x7's generally are indoor arrows especially with larger spines as they can be really badly affected by wind.

If you are only going to be indoors that's not a problem but if you are outdoors it might mean you spend all night looking for arrows that have been blown off course.

If you are thinking of doing a lot of outdoor shooting and want to start shooting longer distances than 30m then I'd go for carbons. If not you would get away with shooting jazz

I shoot acc's and they have lasted very well. I started with 25 two and a half years ago and I still have 20 shootable ones which have survived trees, rocks, walls... Of the 5 only one was properly smashed, two were lost, one was robinhooded and one had the barelling bent a bit when a pile came out.

Navs are good as well but I don't know too much about them. I wouldn't go any higher. . There are other brands to look at arrow wise apart from Easton ones. Cartel triples for instance

2314's mean you have a 32" draw with 41-45lbs yeah?

For getting new equipment go with one or two bits at a time and get used to it before looking at something else. Most people run on their own timetable. They get new bits and bobs as the need arises.

Sparks · 29-07-2008 01:27PM

Well, for now I'm limited to shooting outdoors at 30m. (No indoor facilities and we don't have 50m of room, let alone 90m) I'd stick with Jazz, except that I can't find 2314 Jazz arrows. I'm not sure Easton make them with that spine.

2314's mean you have a 32" draw with 41-45lbs yeah?

32" and change (to be honest, it's closer to 33") on a 70" 28lb bow, so it's somewhere around 38lb-ish at draw.

toxof · 29-07-2008 01:30PM

Get a cheap set of x7's. They will do you great for the rest of the outdoor season and all through the indoors. Next spring spend a bit of money on good carbon arrows.

Because you still a novice your poundage will be rising so buying carbons is a waste as a month later they will be too weak for your poundage.

x7's can be shot at 70m no problem, just on a windy day you might find more misses or blacks than normal.

Renegade_Archer · 29-07-2008 10:25PM

Agreed. Shot my first Junior Euronations qualifying score with 2214 X7s, and that's out to 60m. Just be careful in the wind

[edit]

You can also just buy more X7s if you need them, you're not restricted to sets of 12 like most decent A/C arrows

[/edit]

Sparks · 29-07-2008 10:43PM

Hm. Okay, X7s it is so. And a cheapo cartel button as well probably. And then tuning time.

Panserborn · 29-07-2008 10:47PM

Sparks wrote:

Easton's charts recommend using 2314 spines

Good Lord :eek:................. you sure about that? Not doubting it, its just that for a 28-29" compound peaking at 60lbs these spines would even feel a little soft! I use 2315 in a compound set up as described - seems stiff for any measue of a recurve. But, as I said, i shoot compound - what would I know about recurve :P.

In terms of outdoor arrows, ACCs are good and rugged and will shoot into trees and target stands and come out begging for more. In my experience, the ACE is the exact opposite. Redlines (or even LightSpeeds) are another All-Carbon alternative. Cheaper but some might argue more difficult to tune - and will not take as kindly to rough treatment as the ACCs. Keep in mind though, the outdoor season is starting the decline to the September-ish closing date. Indoors will be on us fairly quick. I know you don't have an indoor facility yet but if ye reckon ye will then go for a meaty set of X7 and then ask Christmas present (sorry to all for mentioning the C word this early

) givers for a set of ACC or Redlines.

In terms of what gear to buy for yourself to free yourself of the club gear, anything that is involved with score should be bought - tab, button, arrowrest etc. Support gear like a bowstand and armguard you can bum off the club for a while.

Thats my tupence.

Sparks · 29-07-2008 11:10PM

Panserborn wrote: »

Good Lord :eek:................. you sure about that?

Not hugely! The limbs say 28lb, it's a draw of about 33" so it should be 38lbish at draw - the chart says that for every inch of draw over 32, drop down to the next line in the chart, which gives this selection for me, with the 2314 highlighted as the most common selection:
430R (400)|A/C/E
3-49|A/C/C
6.1|P/C
2312|X7,S
2413|X7,75,S
2314|X7,75,S
2215(*2214)|75,S,(X7)
2216|75,S
It's really possible that I've misread this, so if you spot the error, sing out...

ask Christmas present (sorry to all for mentioning the C word this early ) givers for a set of ACC or Redlines.

Ooooh, xmas gift ideas. I approve

In terms of what gear to buy for yourself to free yourself of the club gear, anything that is involved with score should be bought - tab, button, arrowrest etc.

Hmmm. Arrowrest. The one I have is the standard plastic Hoyt hunter thingy, is there any major advantage to anything more complicated?

Support gear like a bowstand and armguard you can bum off the club for a while.

Seems good advice to me!

Panserborn · 30-07-2008 12:50PM

Sparks wrote: »

It's really possible that I've misread this, so if you spot the error, sing out...

Ah, I think I might see whats going on. Generally, for every inch over the marked limb poundage you add 2 lbs to the draw weight. I reckon the the chart says that for every inch of draw over 32, drop down to the next line in the chart bit of the instructions is taking this into account, so you might be essentially adjusting twice - once 'cause you are adjusting poundage to 38, and second 'cause you are adjusting the DL.

All this in mind, 2215 sounds about right, maybe even 2212 if you wanted to make the arrow a little lighter and bung some 200gr points into them.

Sparks wrote:

Hmmm. Arrowrest. The one I have is the standard plastic Hoyt hunter thingy, is there any major advantage to anything more complicated?

Depends on the riser, if you have a wooden riser then the plastic rest is good. Is it the white or the black one? Can't rem which is the hunter. Either way, the white one it the best as it has better flipping action. Just buy about 5 of them for your kit bag.

Panserborn · 30-07-2008 01:36PM

Here is what Easton (in 2006, same now) think of your setup (attached file).

This program they used to give out often reported spines a bit weak for barebows, but for recurve and compound I always found them reliable.

Sparks · 30-07-2008 01:48PM

Panserborn wrote: »

Ayou might be essentially adjusting twice

Ah-ha!
Thought I might have mucked it up there allright.

All this in mind, 2215 sounds about right, maybe even 2212 if you wanted to make the arrow a little lighter and bung some 200gr points into them.

I have no idea if I'd want to do that or not

Depends on the riser, if you have a wooden riser then the plastic rest is good. Is it the white or the black one?

The black one.

Can't rem which is the hunter. Either way, the white one it the best as it has better flipping action.

Typical, it would be the one I don't have

Just buy about 5 of them for your kit bag.

Five of them? Do they break regularly or something?

Here is what Easton (in 2006, same now) think of your setup (attached file).

Excellent, cheers panser. Must grab that program from their website...

Panserborn · 30-07-2008 03:06PM

The black rest is grand, but I bet it now looks very different from how it looked new! The arrows wear it away quite a lot, but its so strong that it doesn't break and so the position of the arrow in the rest gradually changes over time. The white ones are weaker - so they flip out of the way of the arrow well. Also means they break realtively often - maybe a new one every 2 months or so for an active archer. Also, if you do buy a button (highly recommended

) then make uber sure you cut the wee little bit of plastic above the shelf of these rests off! Its there to act as a very rudimentry (spelling!) button, if you have it on the rest AND have a button you'll never tune the thing - two buttons 'n all!

For your arrows, if you reckon you'll be shooting indoors then get the heavy ones (2215). If these will be mostly outdoor arrows get the 2212 - this is all for the X7s by the way, XX75 (Blues / Jazz / Patinum) have a different spining.

That arrow selector programe from Easton is great and free - but unfortunatly not available anymore! Don't know why they took it off the website!

Sparks · 30-07-2008 03:14PM

Panserborn wrote: »

The black rest is grand, but I bet it now looks very different from how it looked new!

It does have a certain... polished look to it allright

The arrows wear it away quite a lot, but its so strong that it doesn't break and so the position of the arrow in the rest gradually changes over time. The white ones are weaker - so they flip out of the way of the arrow well. Also means they break realtively often - maybe a new one every 2 months or so for an active archer.

Ah, right so. But if they wear away, would it not be better to just get one of the metal ones? Or do they wear out/break as well?

Also, if you do buy a button (highly recommended ) then make uber sure you cut the wee little bit of plastic above the shelf of these rests off! Its there to act as a very rudimentry (spelling!) button, if you have it on the rest AND have a button you'll never tune the thing - two buttons 'n all!

Sounds like something I'd spend a fortnight on allright

Sparks · 30-07-2008 04:07PM

Um, just to check - let's assume that over the next six months or so, WTSC gets itself signed up to the IAAA - we haven't so far, since we have all of three regular archers (me and two juniors) and we've only just started - and supposing I actually get to where I'm reasonably happy to let random strangers see how bad I am at this; are there such things as outdoor 30m only matches, or do you have to dive in right at the full FITA round/Olympic round level? (I'm guessing X7s for 90m would be suboptimal, even if I can reach that far

).

And for the "ordinary" domestic matches (whether they're FITA rounds or not), do you have to have the whole "names on arrows" things? If so, we might well go off and splurge a few quid on arrow wraps for club members for consistency. If it's something that doesn't show up until the international levels, well...

...well actually, knowing us, we might well do it anyway, we like to push it a bit sometimes

But still, it'd be good to know.

Panserborn · 30-07-2008 04:50PM

Sparks wrote: »

would it not be better to just get one of the metal ones? Or do they wear out/break as well?

Metal flippers are good, as long as you have a smooth draw. They don't have that up-curling barb at the end of them to stop the arrow falling off.

Closest thing to a 30m match is the Short Metric (SM) round which is generally at every outdoor comp as well as the FITA/Olympic rounds. The SM round is 2 rounds of arrows at 50m and 2 rounds at 30m. Barebows, juniors and outdoor beginners often shoot this round and if you can put the arrows on at 30m then you'll put them on at 50 as well. Using X7s as well any missed arrows will be easy to find by eye, or will light up on a metal detector. A good proportion of archers in the SM use X7s or XX75s.

As for names on arrows, its always something the judges pull you up on - indoor or outdoor. A silver pen is as good as wraps. On saying that, if you do take the carbon or composite arrow plunge, I would def recommend wraps for those arrows, as well as double sided tape to attach fletches instead of glue. For indoor alu arrows like the X7s, wraps are just to make them look good. I just got a set of fluorescent wraps for field archery delivered from http://www.custommadewraps.com, they look great. Worked out at about a buck a wrap.

Renegade_Archer · 30-07-2008 05:49PM

I've been using the cartel x-pert rest for a couple of years. Comes in a number of colours, hard to break. Cheap. Angle it upward *slightly* to help keep the arrow on the rest.

I'd personally avoid the Redlines. Performance in the wind is atrocious, and they're rather fragile. Once the next outdoor season swings around, consider a set of Cartel Triples. Most of the performance of an ACE, but a lot less money.

ppringle · 31-07-2008 09:33AM

Yes go for the Cartel Triple. They were my first set and was very happy with them. They're very cheap and work very well, as RA said, as good as ACEs.
The big plus is that you dont have to buy them by the dozen. So 8 should be more than enough for a start.

Phil

Renegade_Archer · 31-07-2008 11:13PM

I said "most", not "all" :pac:

The Triple is a parallel shaft, whereas the ACE is a barreled shaft - performance is superior in most cases - I've shot 1100s with both ACEs and Triples, but I shot Triples when I was a poor student, and ACEs after I graduated

That said, for his draw length, you're looking at very heavy, very long arrows any way you look at it - the most optimal arrow for this setup (if you can find a suitable spine) is probably the CT McKinney II. I bought a set a few months back (I pull 40lbs at 30.5"), but I've been too busy to try them out

Sparks · 31-07-2008 11:25PM

Renegade_Archer wrote: »

That said, for his draw length, you're looking at very heavy, very long arrows any way you look at it

Curse my overly manly arms.
It's not the first time either - my target shooting setup is just plain wierd as well, most folks can't aim my rifle because it's set for my freakishly long shoulder-cheek-eye distances. I blame a lifetime of good nutrition and a childhood love of (but not talent for) treeclimbing.

And now I get to pay for that by having to constantly tell myself that I've only just started archery and it would be silly to spend €500 on a W&W 27" innocarbon riser. Even if they are pretty. I blame R_A for this you know. Him and his girlish looking PSE. (seriously, is hot pink some sort of traditional archery colour?

)

Oh, actually, there's a point. Do you have to register club colours with IAAA before showing up in them to a match? (I just keep hearing that it's whites or club colours at these matches, and I was wondering what stopped folks saying "why yes, my club colours are pizza stains on white...")

ruiner · 01-08-2008 07:49AM

If you want to shoot in an IAAA shoot you need to be an IAAA member and you can only become a member through a member club. It's to cover you for insurance.

When the club joins with the IAAA you tell them what your club colours are.

Panserborn · 01-08-2008 10:46AM

Sparks wrote: »

it would be silly to spend €500 on a W&W 27" innocarbon riser.

Indeed it would, BUT check out the W&W ProAccent riser. Same idea and design as the Inno but made with cheaper stuff. Designed to be a more affordable Inno. Spoken to some archers from the NI and UK field teams who are W&W shooters for life - some actually traded in their Innos for a ProAccent as they actually preferred the action on it!

Sparks · 01-08-2008 11:08AM

Is there a 27" version?

AGH! NO! STOP! PUT DOWN THE VISA CARD!

Bad Panser! Stop encouraging that sort of thing!

Reku · 01-08-2008 11:51AM

Suppose this is as good a place as any for this:

1. Fletchings; what are people's views on feathers and spinwings/curlyvanes, much use for indoor FITA? Basically I'm thinking of giving EA FMJ Navigators (400 spine 32" length, seems to be a case of 35lbs+ = 400 spine on these so even if I upgrade my limbs these should be fine AFAIK) a try and am debating whether to go with the basic fletchings or something a bit more elaborate.

2. Magnetic arrow rests, I presume they should be placed such that they move with the arrow, i.e. as the arrow moves forward the fletchings can push the rest to the side, as opposed to risking catching on it?

Gees... you leave college and have to give up archery for a few years and find that they don't make any of your gear anymore (Hoyt GM riser with FX limbs and CXL arrows).
:rolleyes:
Maybe I should eBay it as a collectable. lol:D

Panserborn · 02-08-2008 07:25PM

farohar wrote: »

1. Fletchings; what are people's views on feathers and spinwings/curlyvanes, much use for indoor FITA?

Indoors basic fletching is fine. Generally, spin vanes won't reach the optimal spin to be useful at indoor distances. You've better off using long (3.5 - 4") vanes for maximum stability. Alternatively, what a lot of compounds do and will prob work for recurve as well - 4" Quick Spins are really long normal vanes with a wee kicker at the back to induce some spin. Kind of a "little from column A, little from column B" alternative.

Magnetic arrow rests, I presume they should be placed such that they move with the arrow, i.e. as the arrow moves forward the fletchings can push the rest to the side, as opposed to risking catching on it?

Yup, that they should. Be careful with the model of rest you use though. The ones that have a bit that pops out at the back as the arm swings towards the bow (like the W&W one) can catch the fletches and at best punch a hole in them, at worst take them off completly. If you have a GM, the Cavailer wrap around mag rest is good.

Sparks · 05-08-2008 04:07AM

Hm. Figured I'd go measure stuff twice before cutting once, so to speak. Now I'm just all confussed again. I'm pretty certain my first draw length measurement was either way off or a safety thing so I wouldn't accidentally overdraw and ruin my penmanship. But when trying to measure it today, I'm hitting a question - is there a correct point to which you should draw to measure your draw length, or is it just to the point which you normally draw to?

Depending whether or not I drop my draw shoulder back, it's either 28" or 30". (Though at least neither's 32" so no need for a 27" riser or an extreme setup, so that's good). Watching the form of folks on youtube shooting isn't helping - either it looks like it's fully dropped, like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DH9qVo_tX9k

Or it doesn't, like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwM4Zm6WliY

Is there even a right answer?

Panserborn · 05-08-2008 11:27AM

Technically, all through the predraw and shot the arrow should never creep forward. This means that the "point that you usually draw to" should be the DL. Maybe a mm or two more to allow you to start using back tension to come through the clicker (when you get one). If in doubt as to a 28" or a 30" arrow then get he 30", if its too long it can be cut again. Unfortunatly short arrows can never grow no matter how often you water them!

On your first video the archers forward shoulder is way to high so it makes the back shoulder look low.

If you don't need a 27" riser then pro......................acccccent................... (subliminal mesage

)

Sparks · 05-08-2008 12:07PM

Panserborn wrote: »

Technically, all through the predraw and shot the arrow should never creep forward. This means that the "point that you usually draw to" should be the DL. Maybe a mm or two more to allow you to start using back tension to come through the clicker (when you get one). If in doubt as to a 28" or a 30" arrow then get he 30", if its too long it can be cut again. Unfortunatly short arrows can never grow no matter how often you water them!

Well, it'd be a 29" or 31" arrow (I was measuring from nock base to rest to get the DL because the rest and the throat are on the same vertical line on the riser). Thing is, with the new figures, reading off the easton chart a 28" draw (29" arrow) means 1912/2012/1914s, but the 30" draw means 2212/2114/2016s. There's no overlap. Am I overthinking this (I see that a lot in starting target shooters)? Can I just split the difference and call it 29" or is the 28" because I'm not doing it right and I should be drawing to the full 30"?

If you don't need a 27" riser then pro......................acccccent................... (subliminal mesage )

BAD PANSER!
Keep this up and I'm going to do what our coach suggested and choose hot pink as the club colours!

Sparks · 05-08-2008 12:08PM

(Actually I'm guessing that 28lb/32lb isn't enough ooomph to get to 90m and I probably will have to get something new in the riser department next year. And the proaccent does come in hot pink...)

Panserborn · 06-08-2008 11:15PM

Sparks wrote: »

Am I overthinking this (I see that a lot in starting target shooters)? Can I just split the difference and call it 29" or is the 28" because I'm not doing it right and I should be drawing to the full 30"?

Nope, not overthinking it. Getting the spine right is critical. Many target archers measure the arrowlength from the neck of the nock to "the button-hole plus an inch". I've found this to be reliable. 30" does seem like a long draw but not unheard of. I'd have an average recurve draw and it comes to 29". Without seeing ya draw it is difficult to really say which is the better DL, on saying that though, if you were confidant that the arrow would be safely on the rest at 29" then I'd go for that. In terms of arrow stability and using a clicker you really don't want the arrow poking out too much from the front of the bow - hence the "button-hole plus an inch" stuff.

28-32lbs is doable at 90m - tough, but doable. Nice fast arrows, shorter limbs and a clean release will do a lot to up the odds.

Renegade_Archer · 07-08-2008 12:00AM

The first video is of an archer who is considerably better than me, although her shoulder is on the higher range of normal. I'd look at some of Frangilli's videos for how a guy of similar build to us :pac: shoots... Even better, get your hands on The Heretic Archer book, or Total Archery by Ki Sik Lee, depending on what religion you subscribe to...

Sparks · 07-08-2008 01:10AM

Nope, not overthinking it. Getting the spine right is critical.

Thank fuzz for that, I was afraid I was in that beginners spiral again (you know, where you want to do X, which depends on Y which depends on Z which depends on Y/Z which depends on A which depends on Y....)

I'd look at some of Frangilli's videos for how a guy of similar build to us shoots

Fair point. Perhaps the best form to emulate for folks with our build isn't the 4'0", 60lb Korean women's team

get your hands on The Heretic Archer book, or Total Archery by Ki Sik Lee, depending on what religion you subscribe to...

What religion?

/me goes looking for the Comparative Archery Religion for Beginners thread...

Renegade_Archer · 07-08-2008 06:06PM

There are two major schools of thought on how to execute the shot; the Koreans (and by extension most teams coached by Koreans) advocate concentrating on the pull, whereas Vittorio Frangilli (father and coach to Michele Frangilli - indoor and outdoor world champion) advocates getting in line, and then concentrating on pushing the bowarm towards the target. This is the method I use, as the bowarm has always been the weakest part of my form.

The pulling method(also known as the BEST method) is described in KiSik Lee's book Total Archery, whereas the pushing method is described in Vittorio's book, The Heretic Archer.

Sparks · 14-08-2008 09:48PM

Right, finally got the bowscales, measured the draw weight (averaging just below 29lb +/- 0.5lb or so), measured the nock-rest length at full draw (several times, averages at 28" +/- about 0.25"), so the charts say 29" 1914 X7s. Given that beginners draw lengths are supposed to increase over time, I added a half inch to that. And then away to the internet and retail therapy:

A dozen 29.5" X7 1914's
Nibb points, hotglue, Beiter nocks and Kurly Vanes for fun (and their various tapes and such)
KAP Magnetic Rest (just a rebadged W&W rest really)
Cartel Triple Cushion Pressure Button
Cavalier Magnetic Clicker
Spigarelli Clicker (for herself)
Cartel RX-104 Bow Stand
2 Cartel Arrow Pullers (his'n'hers)
Cavalier Finger Sling (for herself)
SF Elite Backpack
Cartel Sight (also for herself)
Cartel T-Guage

And a few new target faces for the club.

This retail therapy stuff could get addictive

Hopefully that'll do for the next few months though - panser, the git, has me thinking now of new dark red proaccent riser&limbs and a move up to 40-44lb or so for next spring. :mad:

Renegade_Archer · 14-08-2008 11:16PM

You'll need some way to mark lines on the shafts for the Kurly Vanes.. I use a Beiter Tri-Liner, you can also use a bog-standard fletching jig to mark the lines too. Regarding the Kurly Vanes, if they don't work for you, don't be afraid to go back to good old Arizona Plastifletch, if glued properly they'll stay on X7s forever.

Sparks · 14-08-2008 11:18PM

Yup, the club has one (a bog-standard jig that is) and I'm borrowing it for an hour or so when the stuff arrives.

What're the odds that all this kit will just point out that I should have upgraded the archer?

And the Kurly Vanes are just an experiment of sorts - the club has the standard fletches to fall back on if they don't work. But transparent nocks and transparent vanes just looked too proper to turn down (Can't choose colours? Choose no-colours!

).

Panserborn · 18-08-2008 06:41PM

Arrows look good! Can't argue with X7s - they really are the mutz nutz indoors.

Kurly vanes are good and look cool, just try not to ram them through a target as they don't take kindly to pass-throughs or close shots with other arrows. Be aware as well that there are vanes for righties and lefties! Mis-matching will make you cry!

Sparks wrote:

panser, the git

That I am, that I am. There are many bows in NUIG that I used the powers of the force to "convince" the owners to get. But all in good faith .................. apart from one .............. but he had it coming ............... :P

Sparks · 18-08-2008 09:20PM

And there's a new tab in there as well (the cheap version of the soma saker I). Best guess is all this won't get here until next week at best though

Stupid delays.
Still, going out tomorrow night to look at Dublin Archers (the idea being to train there during the weekdays).

Carebear11 · 18-08-2008 10:20PM

Sparks I knoticed that your in Greystones, and yet you want to train in Dublin Archers which is on the North side of Dublin. I just thought that I would tell you if you dident alrady know that there is aclub in Bray and one in Wicklow town, I have nuthing agensed Dublin archers, they are a very good club but for convience sake, Woodbrook archers in Bray may be a better choice!

Sparks · 18-08-2008 10:29PM

Not a problem carebear; I live in Greystones only about half the time these days. Most of the time I'm in Dublin, about five minutes cycling away from the Dublin Archer's outdoors location. Still though... do Woodbrook train on Wednesday or Thursday nights do you know?

(It's kind of neat that in the three places I tend to regularly find myself - Greystones, Dublin and Kilkenny - there's an archery club nearby...)

Carebear11 · 19-08-2008 11:32AM

Yeah Woodbrook train on Thursday nites in St.Brendans...... Usualy from half 6 - Dark(about 9 at the mo)

Sparks · 19-08-2008 11:37AM

St.Brendans? Is there a map to there? (Apart from Pres. I don't remember where any of the schools in Bray are).

Carebear11 · 19-08-2008 04:00PM

Very simple, if you go through littel Bray and go straight throught the roundabout as you exit the town and head on to Shankill St.Brendans is about 150meters on the left hand side, there are two entrance gates, one will be open.....

Sparks · 19-08-2008 04:05PM

Um, I thought that was simple, looked up my google map to confirm, and found this: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=st.brendans,+bray,+co.wicklow,+Ireland&jsv=124&sll=53.139113,-6.075536&sspn=0.14571,0.110893&ie=UTF8&latlng=53189796,-6111531,11824348114105625011&ei=me6qSMbNEpbAqwKN_8TRCQ&cd=1
Is that not way too far south?
I was thinking that the roundabout you meant was the one for the north end of bray from the m11.

Sparks · 20-08-2008 12:11PM

Sparks wrote: »

Still, going out tomorrow night to look at Dublin Archers (the idea being to train there during the weekdays).

Went out last night to take a peek. Very interesting (thanks again to Suzanne for looking after us if she's reading). I thought the facilities would be harder to replicate in WTSC, but now I think we can manage (especially as we just managed to finagle access to a field that will let us shoot the full 90m FITA rounds

). The kit was uber-shiny though, even the basic beginners kit was all Winstar II's and Hoyt GMs. And the Hoyt Helixes were terribly impressive. I'm feeling a distinct case of riser envy

I'm also being struck more and more by the contrast between the archery and the target shooting - for a start, the age profile is massively different, far far younger in archery. I felt like one of the old men there last night, but I'd be one of the younger members in a target shooting club. It's a lot less formal as well, walk-ups are taken in stride - sadly it's not always that way with target shooting, though we do try. And it's a lot more convivial during the shooting - in target shooting, the shooters wear earplugs or ear defenders (it's that or go deaf) and you can't talk on the range behind them, it's seen as very rude in practise and it's against competition rules. Last night folks could talk and chat away, very different atmosphere. And all the little cuts, scrapes and bruises were new as well - you just don't get them in shooting (we've not had an accident in Ireland yet in the last 140 years or so, but when they've happened abroad, they're pretty serious - folks get killed or maimed. It's like airline crashes - incredibly rare but also incredibly serious). Well. Most people don't get them in shooting, I seem to be accident-prone, I keep walloping my head on low ceilings, cutting my fingers on sharp edges on sights and such, that kind of thing. But I'm a bit of an exception.

edit:Wrote it up for fun.

Sparks · 28-08-2008 02:07PM

Sparks wrote: »

retail therapy:
A dozen 29.5" X7 1914's

Nibb points, hotglue, Beiter nocks and Kurly Vanes for fun (and their various tapes and such)

KAP Magnetic Rest (just a rebadged W&W rest really)

Cartel Triple Cushion Pressure Button

Cavalier Magnetic Clicker

Spigarelli Clicker (for herself)

Cartel RX-104 Bow Stand

2 Cartel Arrow Pullers (his'n'hers)

Cavalier Finger Sling (for herself)

SF Elite Backpack

Cartel Sight (also for herself)

Cartel T-Guage

And a few new target faces for the club.

Wooot! All arrived this morning and it's all shiny and new

Must do photos this evening and swipe the club's fletching jig and then it's off to try it out in anger on Sunday!

Sparks · 29-08-2008 12:00AM

So that’s a dozen new arrows (albiet in kit form, but I’ve borrowed the club’s fletching jig so I should have them all made up by the weekend); a new rest, button and clicker; a t-gauge; a bowstand and arrowpuller; and a new backpack to put them all in (I can finally stop keeping my bow in a torn cardboard box held together with twine!).

Cycled from TCD to the flat with the backpack on, so it does work for that, even if the arrowtube blocks visibility slightly (and it occasionally pokes you in the back of the helmet). Now to spend tomorrow evening and chunks of saturday putting all this together, then out to Wilkinstown for Sunday lunchtime to see if any of this stuff actually works!

Sparks · 31-08-2008 09:54PM

Finally finished the dozen arrows last night, and stuck all the stuff on the riser as well.
Also made a quick trip to the Arts&Crafts store to ensure I remember that this is meant to be a fun sport:

Renegade_Archer · 01-09-2008 12:10AM

Sorry to piss on your parade, but that smiley sticker on the back of the bow (e.g. in the sight window) is not FITA-legal, as it constitutes a second aiming point..

Sparks · 01-09-2008 12:13AM

Fscking heck. What if I moved it up above the sight window?

Renegade_Archer · 01-09-2008 12:30AM

AFAIR, you can't have any stickers / markings etc in the field of view of the archer.

Sparks · 01-09-2008 12:33AM

Aw sod. Ruining my fun. That means I've even got to take off the smiley faces on the sides of the riser as well (well, once I get to the shooting in a competition stage anyway).
Oh well.

Equipment buying for beginner technophiles...

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