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Shooting Forum - Firearms licencing information

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#62 12-07-2010 8:53pm
clivej

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I did the bedding job on my Sako 75 lamiated varmint last week over 2 days. I didn't take any vid's or photos as it was just to much trouble to get set up and do. To much to remember with the bedding without having to think of photo's as well.

As to the pillars well good old B&Q have plenty of ali tubing in a rack in their stores. I use the 8mm OD/ 6mm ID as my action bolts are 6mm. I first took the messurement of the thickness of the stock where the action bolts go thru.
Then with the calipers still set, I thightend down the small caliper screw, I transfered the messurement to the ali tube with a scratch mark. Using a plumbers tube cutters I cut the tubing and reamered out the bur from the tube centre.

Put the action back in the stock to make sure all was good, take off again.

Day 1.
First job was to bed the pillars in the trigger guard side of the the stock, Drilled out the action screw holes to take the pillars and then dremeled out some of the wood around the pillars to take the Devcon. I used clear shoe polish, works very well, to stop any Devcon sticking to the trigger guard and stock. And used masking tape to cover up the stock and any other bits I didn't want the Devcon to get on.
I used BBQ kebab sticks, from Woodies, to mix and apply the Devcon 2+1/2 to 1 by volume. Screwed the action back with the trigger guard in place while the Devcon set 16+ hours. This now fixed the pillars in place so I could then start removing wood from the action side of the stock. Then when I put the acton back in place for the bedding the pillars can not move.

Day 2
Took apart the guard OK.
Dremelled out the wood from around the now set pillars from the action of the stock about 4-6mm in places. Also where the recoil lug sits and anywhere else i thought was needed. Wrapped masking tape around anywhere on the stock and gun action where the devcon was not the stick, polished up everywhere the devcon was not to stick. Used modeling clay as a dam around the barrel put the barrel back to form a mould shape. Used polystirene (spelling??) to fill the mag well and also polished that.
Mixed up the devcon didn't overfill to much and then put it all back and screwed up the action again. not too much overfill came out, only a little.
Polish up the action screws as well,
Put a couple of layers of masking tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug as you only want the lug touching the stock, the Devcon, on the lug's back face.

*** Use Nail varnish remover with cotton buds and/or rag to remove, clean and tidy up everything before the Devcon sets. You have 45 minutes work time with the Devcon.***

Day 3
pulled it apart but it was very hard to get apart. BUT ALL GOOD.
took off the masking tape and it goes back tight but easy now.

Have yet to test fire it as the weather is not too good. But as I do up the action screws the rifle and stock new feel like they are now the one unit.

Trigger Guard Bedding

Action Bedding

First 5 shot group after the bedding. Prone @100y off bi-pod 155gr @2800 f/sec. I'm happy enough as that is what I was getting off a bench at the range.

The lower shots are aimimg in and the top is the 5 shot group. Measured @ 1/2" centre to centre.

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#63 12-07-2010 9:42pm
Tackleberrywho

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Put this on the Pimping thread :D:D:D

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#64 25-07-2010 6:06pm
clivej

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Here's wot I did to my CZ 22lr style. It will tighten up your groups.
Best forum on the CZ rimfire rifle is here
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18

Get the trigger kit and it will be the best $15 you will ever spend on your gun. Search youtube for info as well.

Free stuff.
1- Float the barrel by sanding out the barrel channel. Use rought sandpaper and get it nearly there then use the fine stuff. Keep at it until you can slide a business card between the stock and barrel, 2 cards thickness even better. Varnish the stock inside afterwards.

2- The barrel is held in place by the front action screw that fixes to the barrel using an Escutcheon piece of metal. This is held to the barrel by a dovetail arrangement but is free to move side to side. It is recomented that this Escutcheon, part 48, is fixed to the barrel. Use a 6mm grub screw 6mm long to hold it to the barrell. Make sure the grub screw is not so long that the front action screw hits it, the grub screw, when tightening it up.
Put the grub screw in place in the Encutcheon but don't tighten it up. Reassemble the action and then screw the grub screw in, that way it will be central.

Main view

Escutcheon and 6mm x 6mm grub screw

I drilled off the top off this pin to make pushing it out a little better. Only bearly take the top off the pin. Used epoxey to keep in place after fitting the YoDave parts.

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#65 28-07-2010 3:17pm
Vegeta

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If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point

Some useful info here

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#66 15-08-2010 2:10am
Tackleberrywho

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I never thought of posting a TIP for all Remington users with injection molded factory stocks!

A bedding job for under €10 DIY
Fill the recoil lug hole with epoxy putty, most good Ind hardware stores will have ~€8 for a tube, fill recoil lug slot, tape barrel with masking tape until you have the barrel floating.
Tighten rifle to stock and leave overnight.

in morning remove stock gingerly from rifle action, you will notice your recoil lug is longer.
remove masking tape off barrel.
Refit barrel/action into stock "gingerly"
Tighten bolts, gingerly taking each bolt revolution at a time to ensure even tightness

Take out and get best ammo you can to zero and test.

biggest TIP do not use shi** ammo to test as you are trying to show what can be done if all things are equal!

Any other help needed feel free to PM me, or reply. Which ever you prefer!

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#67 15-08-2010 2:27am
Tackleberrywho

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If you have an SPS VTR or similar this trick will work on all of them

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#68 10-10-2010 2:37pm
brocdubh

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here is a serious tip.go to a local butcher and get any old meet off him you can.put all the meat out in the field where u are goin to place the trap for bout 2 weeks.this will draw in all mags n g crows.not just in ur area but for like 10 miles round.make sure to clean up the meat when putting out the trap.place fresh meat in the trap and just wait n c the amount of them will catch u wont believe it.let us know how u gt on and if any1 is goin to try it.

i often do that, often draws lamp shy foxes, one word of warning though depending on your area, ravens they will spot a free feed quicker than most.

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#69 24-10-2010 5:08pm
Jonty

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Lads,

Easy Outs are great for this:

http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

Any local hardware should have them.

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#70 11-01-2011 6:03pm
garv123

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said i'd stick this in here.
made a set of shooting sticks yesterday since the .22mag hasn't a bi-pod.

i went into the local hardware shop and got a length of mahogany trim 1"x1/2"
i was looking for something a bit thicker but its all the had unless i went for 2x1
the mahogany was stronger than the white deal and he gave it to me for the same price since he had nothing thicker. i also got a 8mm bolt just long enough to thread the nut threw, and two nails.
€5 for the lot

i cut the wood in half and got down onto the ground and crossed the sticks till i found a height that was comfortable for me in a shooting position. think it was about 33" for me where the sticks crossed
i added about 6 inches onto that for the overall length to allow for the gun to rest on these pieces. i tried to hammer a nail in gently into the end of each piece but as soon as i touched it i saw it began to crack. this was for something to grip the ground. the wood was too thin so i decided to go for some small tacks which did the job and dug into the ground good.
i sprayed it black and a bit of green just to make it a bit better looking.

i tightened the bold tight enough so when closed it wouldn't open freely and covered the bolt and thread in superglue to keep it from opening again.

next thing was a handle
i found an old elastic in my room that was pretty big that i must have robbed last year in school. one of them thick strong ones.
wrapped it around the just under the nut twice. theres still plenty of stretch in it so i can now pull one piece of it, wrap it threw a belt ring in my pants and wrap it around the stick for a 3rd time. its great for carrying it and theres no weight at all in it and easy to flick off to use. i forget its there

really handy and a hell of a lot better than firing off the shoulder.

i know most of ye have bipods but its really handy for when high grass is in the way so i said i'd stick it in here.

i looked online for anymore ideas but most of them are pretty similar

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#71 11-01-2011 6:43pm
Tackleberrywho

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garv123 wrote: »

said i'd stick this in here.
made a set of shooting sticks yesterday since the .22mag hasn't a bi-pod.

i went into the local hardware shop and got a length of mahogany trim 1"x1/2"
i was looking for something a bit thicker but its all the had unless i went for 2x1
the mahogany was stronger than the white deal and he gave it to me for the same price since he had nothing thicker. i also got a 8mm bolt just long enough to thread the nut threw, and two nails.
€5 for the lot

i cut the wood in half and got down onto the ground and crossed the sticks till i found a height that was comfortable for me in a shooting position. think it was about 33" for me where the sticks crossed
i added about 6 inches onto that for the overall length to allow for the gun to rest on these pieces. i tried to hammer a nail in gently into the end of each piece but as soon as i touched it i saw it began to crack. this was for something to grip the ground. the wood was too thin so i decided to go for some small tacks which did the job and dug into the ground good.
i sprayed it black and a bit of green just to make it a bit better looking.

i tightened the bold tight enough so when closed it wouldn't open freely and covered the bolt and thread in superglue to keep it from opening again.

next thing was a handle
i found an old elastic in my room that was pretty big that i must have robbed last year in school. one of them thick strong ones.
wrapped it around the just under the nut twice. theres still plenty of stretch in it so i can now pull one piece of it, wrap it threw a belt ring in my pants and wrap it around the stick for a 3rd time. its great for carrying it and theres no weight at all in it and easy to flick off to use. i forget its there

really handy and a hell of a lot better than firing off the shoulder.

i know most of ye have bipods but its really handy for when high grass is in the way so i said i'd stick it in here.

i looked online for anymore ideas but most of them are pretty similar

Get a Timber dowel, cut in 3 lengths ~15"
Drill through them ~2.5" from top, sharpen the bottom like a fencing post.
Use Builders Orange line to tie together.

You now have an adjustable tripod, I used one for years when I had feck all money.
I still have them somewhere (God knows where)

If you stick the sticks in the ground you have a serious steady base for the foreend of your rifle.

I shot rabbits prone out past 200 with an old Mauser and my sticks.

I can't find a pic online, however 3 dowels equal length, sharpened at one end, drilled at the other with small bit say 2mm and builders line, all under €5 and rock steady (just not as handy as a harris)

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#72 13-01-2011 6:44pm
dicky82

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this might be what you call stating the bleeding obvious but i was watching a clip on deer stalking and at the end the dude was back home in his 'cold room' when asked about it he explained.

he went to a 'breakers yard' for trucks. found a refridgerated truck that was due to be broken down, bought the trailor (the cold room) for £100 had it shipped home, he was lucky that the fridge motors were still working so he had a working cold room from the word go, even if the motors weren't working im sure you could get them fixed handy enough.

anyway he spent a few quid installing a partition and a butchers block and was all set up.

so to those who have pipe dreams about a cold room this might be an option?

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#73 13-01-2011 11:54pm
Feidhlim Dignan

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stick up a link to the video im sure lads would like a look at it

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#74 14-01-2011 12:16am
dicky82

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here's the clip, its the bit about the deer shooting at the start of the clip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snjyOh-p6mw

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#75 03-02-2011 11:12am
clivej

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Just found this link where they show in detail how to bed a rifle.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022#Post1167022

Just one of the images

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Another here "Stress-Free Pillar Bedding"

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

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#76 03-02-2011 6:25pm
clivej

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I got new low mount sfor my CZ 22lr Varmint and got round to fitting them today. All done on the kitchen counter worktop, and the rifle was on a Harris bi-pod @6" and it has a pod lever to realy keep it tight and stop it moving and I used a rear bag to level up the rifle.
It's important to have the rifle level on all plains.

First level up the rifle in both directions. Very important to do this. And make sure not to move it off level when putting on the mounts.

Put the mounts on the dovetail and tighten up. Check that alls still level

And here's why I don't use the rings as a reference level.
Note I had reversed the rings around to show how much they can be out of level.

Now place the scope in the mount and lightly tighten down the screws, leave enough of a gap under each ring on both sides. You still need to be able to rotate the scope in the mounts so only tighten enough so that it's nice and easy but still grips the scope

Put the level on the top elevation turret and level up the scope.

Now using 2 allen keys tighten up both ring screws at the same time keeping the level bubble in the centre.
By using 2 allen keys it makes it easy to keep it all level.

Sin A Bhfuil

Just found this link that shows a way to check that you have set the scope up dead level to the bore/shot

http://livingprepared.blogspot.com/2...pe-set-up.html

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#77 07-03-2011 11:32pm
clivej

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QuickTarget Unlimited Lapua Edition free download
Free download from here
http://www.lapua.com/en/customer-cen...a-edition.html

And also the manual is free to download on that page as well

QuickTarget Unlimited Lapua Edition (QTU Lapua Edition) is a sophisticated exterior ballistic software that utilizes extremely accurate Doppler radar measurements of bullet trajectories. These continuous air drag coefficients make it possible to calculate the trajectory of your bullet much more accurately than using the simplifed one-number B.C.
Lapua is first to offer this radar data and this accurately verified ballistic data for civilian long-range shooters.
Basically, as starting values you will need only bullet type and muzzle velocity. The software will calculate e.g. bullet drop, velocity and energy as a function of distance and the flying time. If wind conditions (direction and speed) are known you can calculate also wind drift. The program has also many features useful for adjusting your scope. Specific features of the software can be found in the manual downloadable from Lapua website downloads section.
QTU Lapua Edition is a special version of normal QTU that is tailored for Lapua bullets.

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OnTarget Precision Calculator free download
I just came across this handy program for the PC again, MAC version is there as well, and thought I'd share it with you's all.

It gives the marksman a tool to accurately measure and analyze bullet hole groups in their targets. It has a simple and intuitive user interface. You import an image from your scanner or digital camera. Set up parameters including target distance and bullet hole size, and position bullet sized circles over the holes. Group information is automatically calculated and displayed.

Good review from here
http://www.6mmbr.com/ontargetsoftware.html

Download the free version from
http://www.ontargetshooting.com/download1.html

Video here
http://www.ontargetshooting.com/vide...rgetdemo2.html

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Hawke Ballistic Reticles Calculator

download from here, you will need to fill in your E-mail address.
http://www.hawkeoptics.com/global/brc/index.php

With BRC you can - Choose a preferred preset set-up suitable for your calibre* - Choose a preferred reticle for your shooting requirements - Adjust the presets to either work in metric or standard (imperial). - Change zero distances, muzzle velocity, magnification and Estimated Deterioration value (ED). - Plot your rifles trajectory and find the most suitable aim points. - Carry out advanced range finding calculations.

Take the information into the field - The BRC allows you to print trajectory graphs, reticle images and range finding calculations.The BRC will save settings for future reference.

Advanced software designed to ensure the shooter is always on target. Its simple to increase your accuracy and get the most out of your SR or MAP reticle.

The BRC is quick to download and navigate around.

The calculations produce accurate results in the BRC program, that translate into accuracy and precision in the field.

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BigGameInfo balistics calculator - an online program.

Available from here
http://www.biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx

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This is the new home of JBM's online ballistics resources

Trajectory
Calculate a trajectory from bullet, velocity, firearm and atmospheric parameters.

Calculators and Range Cards

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#78 06-05-2011 10:24am
clivej

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How to shim your scope to correct Low/Hi Point Of Impact
Here is a program that will allow you to calculate the effect of varying shim thicknesses.

By the way, most aluminum cans are + .004".

Ring distance is the distance between your scope rings centre to centre.

http://www.twincityrodandgun.com/Sco...Calculator.htm

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#79 07-05-2011 7:26pm
clivej

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Ok here are the Bench Rest targets

Or 25 to a page the real 50m BR targets.

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#80 18-05-2011 7:32am
clivej

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Plenty of information and many types of bullets here...........

The worlds foremost online resource for information on hunting cartridges,
projectiles and their use on medium to large game.

http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledge+Base.html

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#81 09-09-2011 9:46am
clivej

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I use a set of tri-sticks for stalking and thought I'd add another rest to make them even more steady in the shot. I think Stoney Point make a set like this.

I used a fishing telescopic rod rest as the extra leg. Its attached to the leg thats without the gun rest part at the top. I flattened the end of the rod rest and drilled a 6mm hole and then opened out the hole length-ways to make a slot where the 6mm bolt will go.

I used an electrical earth pipe bonding strap and a long 6mm bolt (with the head cut off) with a Nylok nut to fix it to the tri-stick leg. I also cut off the screw fixing tag on the earth strap.

I used a shoe lace at the top of the rest to stop the rest falling down and also a velcro strap the tie it to the tri-stick leg when not in use.

So how good is it to keep the rifle in the aim???
I was able to hit the centre of a 3 foot rock at 695 yards with the only 2 shots I took and shot the head off a rabbit at 200y with my 308 using Hornaday 155gr bullets

Tri-sticks with telescopic rod rest

Earth bonding strap

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#82 29-09-2011 9:35am
clivej

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Just put this up for anyone looking for an easy way to haul deer out of the forests. You can use any length of rope and handy to use pullies as well.

A portable winch, capstan, powered by a 2/4 stroke engine.

http://www.portablewinch.com/en/05.asp

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHtxZhZZ5os

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#83 29-09-2011 7:21pm
The Big Fella

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Id hate tryna winch a deer 1/2 a mile with that yoke!:D It would take days. It looks like more hardship than pulling the deer with your own strength using the winch.

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#84 10-10-2011 9:59pm
clivej

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iStrelok iPhone screen grabs
This program has now been updated since these screen grabs were taken.

Opening screen and screen after tapping the calculate button. It saves the last load settings.
Load data used is
308 155gr bullet, BC=.435, zero=150y, scope height =1.5", MOA click value=1/4", MV=2800. And the target is loaded in @500y.

From the home screen tap the buttons to open the different data input screens.

After tapping the Calculate button or Reticle button either of these two output screens will show the results.
I have shown the Reticle output screen bigger as it shows the mildot reticel and the different elevation and windage text that is tagged to the mildot.
And the target at the 500y range as a yellow round circle. If you had input windage as well the yellow target circle will be offset in the reticle screen as well.
So if we look at the reticle output screen it shows the windage to allow for ie if there's 8MPH wind @right angle offset by the using the first mildot. 17MPH use the second mildot.
The first elevation mildot is for a target at 300y use the second mildot if the target is at 416y.

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#85 03-11-2011 5:57pm
garv123

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So first thing i done when i got the HMR today was try something i saw on youtube, I cant find the video again.

It was basically a sling that was modified to serve as a rear rest using aero-board.

I got a new printer and i used the length of aero-board that came with it protecting it.
It was 5mm thick so i doubled it.
I cut two lengths which worked out at 220x45x5 mm

I then taped them together below with loads of plaster tape to give them a bit of strength to stop them from cracking when been bent. I used alot more tape around the middle and end. The tape is also handy to stop any bits of it falling off making a mess.

This is how it looked.

I then lined it up along the end of the sling by the sling stud and taped it on using insulating tape. I taped it the whole way down and that was it done.

Photos are off my phone so poor enough. (i also ran out of black tape so finished it off with red for now)

It works well. I didnt head outside since its lashing rain but was lying on the floor using a boot as a front rest and i was able to hold the gun a lot more steady using this the sling as a back rest. It can be bent a bit for shooting at different angles and heights.

A lot handier than carrying around a rear bag rest when out lamping.

Free too

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#86 09-01-2012 7:29pm
clivej

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I got this torch in from DinoDirect.com to give a review on.

Details:
UltraFire™ C8 SSC P7 900Lumens LED Flashlight (1 x 18650) @$22.99 inc. postage. No battery and takes 1 x 18650 type.

http://www.dinodirect.com/ultrafire-...1-x-18650.html

Full review click here

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#87 22-02-2012 2:02pm
rabbit assassin

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Basically same size as a rabbit. Great practice for head shots

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#88 04-03-2012 4:45pm
daithi55

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handy to no for anyone using these type guns

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#89 10-03-2012 9:42pm
Double Barrel

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Parts breakdown and schematic of the Baikal IZH-27, but it is in cyrilic script.

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/3362/85362.jpg

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#90 04-04-2012 8:27pm
clivej

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f82DOPW5DJw

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#91 25-11-2012 2:17pm
clivej

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Join Date: December 2007

Posts: 6485

Here is a good read on why to hang your Deer.

A Chemistry Lesson
Despite its different taste and lower levels of fat, venison is very similar to beef. It contains the same basic enzymes, particularly lactic acid, and goes through similar changes after the animal dies. First, the muscles go into rigor mortis, a stiffening lasting at most 24 hours. Butchering a deer during rigor mortis is one of the worst things you can do. It can cause a phenomenon called shortening, where the muscles contract and remain tougher than if butchering took place a day later. Proper aging begins as soon as rigor mortis ends-and this process is definitely not controlled rot. Rot is zillions of bacteria eating the muscle cells, their waste products creating the familiar stench of decaying flesh. Bacteria attack only after meat is exposed to the air, and bacterial rot is accelerated by higher temperatures. It doesn't happen at all if the meat is frozen. To properly age your deer, you must keep it at temperatures above freezing and below about 40 degrees. This holds bacteria (and rot) at bay, allowing natural enzymes to do their work.

Full article here ................
http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/other/recipes/2006/01/deer-hang-time

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