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Tips Section

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    I saw this a while back but only found it again now. And I tried it out and i tworks as well. Best done on a freshly killed bird.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 600 ✭✭✭greenpeter




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭murphy125


    just wondering how do you use the squeaker ?
    do you just blow it normally?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 379 ✭✭Dvs


    murphy125 wrote: »
    just wondering how do you use the squeaker ?
    do you just blow it normally?

    Search on youtube "using fox caller"
    you will find lots of demonstrations, you are trying to make the sound of something that is food and an easy meal, a distressed rabbit for example.

    A lot of times a single squeak is used to get a fox on his rounds to stop to listen, so you can take your shot, the best way I find to do this is purse your lips tightly and suck in a little air, it takes a little practice but has the advantage that you can do it while down behind the rifle,
    exactly when you want to stop the fox.

    Dvs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,795 ✭✭✭fish slapped


    Huntn targets

    http://triebel-shop.com/index.php?cPath=243_319_340

    I like the fox ones :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭murphy125




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,370 ✭✭✭J.R.


    A stencil is easy to make if you've patience.

    1. Go to Microsoft Word and set the orientation (page layout) to landscape (long ways) ...it's usually set at portrait (straight up)

    Set margins to narrow so you'll be able to use all of the page

    2. Set your font to STENCIL (if this is not on your computer download it....do a search for font STENCIL)

    in Page layout set the font spacing to 0 before 0 after.....no space between letters above and below to fit in as much as possible

    3. Write your message e.g. Craggy Island Gun Club
    Lands Preserved

    keep amount of words short ....the more you write the smaller the words will be on the sign to fit it all in.

    4. Adjust the font, making it larger, until the writing fills the page. Usually the largest font is 72 points....too small for sign.

    If you want to increase the font size hightlight it, press ctrl and ] and it will get bigger....ctrl and [ makes it smaller.

    5. Print Off

    6. Cut out wording with aa sciccors very carefully.

    6. Get some hard plastic for your stencil.....I used a plastic cover off a bound document.

    7. Sellotape your stencil to this and trace around the letters you cut out with a permanent marker.

    8. Remove paper stencil to leave plastic sheet with stencilling written in permanent marker.

    9. Cut this out with scapel....use a new blade


    JOB DONE....buy a can of spray paint & off you go....can be used over & over again.


    Sign made in Microsoft Word.....use of STENCIL FONT allows you to cut out letters with a scapel and they will not fall out when finished

    Capt.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭EastTyrone


    another way to make a fox caller.


    Everyone will no the wee toy tractors children have now a days.

    Well take out the horn from one and inside this is reeds. put one side of the horn up to your mouth and blow

    low and behold a rabbit squeel


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    murphy125 wrote: »

    Made them and they work.

    Two things to note. Wood is a hell of a lot heavier than weldmesh & cable ties. Chicken wire isn't worth a toss, magpies will break in and out of it, never mind grey crows!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Full review here = http://boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=66515357#post66515357

    OK I have had these torches out a couple of times now and a few of you have asked where I got them from and how good are they.

    First off don't compare these to the Lightforce 170 lamps. The 170 LF will outshine and throw a longer beam than these ever can. And I have used the 170 LF and still have the handheld version with dimmer.
    But I found that when I used the scope mounted version when I got it off the back seat of the car the lamp head had always turned and I had to twist it back before any shot could be taken a big let down from the 170 LF for me. And of course you always had the battery to carry as well.


    Now these LED torches give a long narrow throw of a beam and you will see the reflection from the foxes eyes @200m+ IMO. You will not make out the outline of the fox at 200m but you will easily see that fox in your scope @150m+ and place the shot. At 100m+ you will see the fox walking about, see it's colour, body, tail, everything.
    I have left one on for over 2 + half hours and you will get a lot more time from it as you won't have it on all the time, and of course you can put a couple of spare batteries in your pocket (careful not to let them short out). The batteries used are 4 x CR123A or 2 x TR18650 3.7volt. Input voltage is 7.4v-17v and is regulated. The output is stated @220lumens and has is a CREE P4 LED.
    It has a clicky/pushy on/off on the end and ou must push it all the way to turn on/off.

    I have two and use one for scaning the fields and the other is fixed to my scope with 2 cheap back to back scope mounts as shown.

    12052010027.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    I did the bedding job on my Sako 75 lamiated varmint last week over 2 days. I didn't take any vid's or photos as it was just to much trouble to get set up and do. To much to remember with the bedding without having to think of photo's as well.

    As to the pillars well good old B&Q have plenty of ali tubing in a rack in their stores. I use the 8mm OD/ 6mm ID as my action bolts are 6mm. I first took the messurement of the thickness of the stock where the action bolts go thru.
    Then with the calipers still set, I thightend down the small caliper screw, I transfered the messurement to the ali tube with a scratch mark. Using a plumbers tube cutters I cut the tubing and reamered out the bur from the tube centre.

    Put the action back in the stock to make sure all was good, take off again.

    Day 1.
    First job was to bed the pillars in the trigger guard side of the the stock, Drilled out the action screw holes to take the pillars and then dremeled out some of the wood around the pillars to take the Devcon. I used clear shoe polish, works very well, to stop any Devcon sticking to the trigger guard and stock. And used masking tape to cover up the stock and any other bits I didn't want the Devcon to get on.
    I used BBQ kebab sticks, from Woodies, to mix and apply the Devcon 2+1/2 to 1 by volume. Screwed the action back with the trigger guard in place while the Devcon set 16+ hours. This now fixed the pillars in place so I could then start removing wood from the action side of the stock. Then when I put the acton back in place for the bedding the pillars can not move.

    Day 2
    Took apart the guard OK.
    Dremelled out the wood from around the now set pillars from the action of the stock about 4-6mm in places. Also where the recoil lug sits and anywhere else i thought was needed. Wrapped masking tape around anywhere on the stock and gun action where the devcon was not the stick, polished up everywhere the devcon was not to stick. Used modeling clay as a dam around the barrel put the barrel back to form a mould shape. Used polystirene (spelling??) to fill the mag well and also polished that.
    Mixed up the devcon didn't overfill to much and then put it all back and screwed up the action again. not too much overfill came out, only a little.
    Polish up the action screws as well,
    Put a couple of layers of masking tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug as you only want the lug touching the stock, the Devcon, on the lug's back face.

    *** Use Nail varnish remover with cotton buds and/or rag to remove, clean and tidy up everything before the Devcon sets. You have 45 minutes work time with the Devcon.***

    Day 3
    pulled it apart but it was very hard to get apart. BUT ALL GOOD.
    took off the masking tape and it goes back tight but easy now.

    Have yet to test fire it as the weather is not too good. But as I do up the action screws the rifle and stock new feel like they are now the one unit.

    Trigger Guard Bedding
    Guardbedding1.jpg
    Guardbedding2.jpg
    Guardbedding3.jpg

    Action Bedding
    Actionbedding1.jpg
    Actionbedding2.jpg
    Actionbedding3.jpg
    Actionbedding4.jpg

    varmintlamss75.jpg

    First 5 shot group after the bedding. Prone @100y off bi-pod 155gr @2800 f/sec. I'm happy enough as that is what I was getting off a bench at the range.

    The lower shots are aimimg in and the top is the 5 shot group. Measured @ 1/2" centre to centre.

    12mmgroupafterbedding.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    Put this on the Pimping thread :D:D:D:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Here's wot I did to my CZ 22lr style. It will tighten up your groups.
    Best forum on the CZ rimfire rifle is here
    http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=18

    Get the trigger kit and it will be the best $15 you will ever spend on your gun. Search youtube for info as well.

    Free stuff.
    1- Float the barrel by sanding out the barrel channel. Use rought sandpaper and get it nearly there then use the fine stuff. Keep at it until you can slide a business card between the stock and barrel, 2 cards thickness even better. Varnish the stock inside afterwards.

    2- The barrel is held in place by the front action screw that fixes to the barrel using an Escutcheon piece of metal. This is held to the barrel by a dovetail arrangement but is free to move side to side. It is recomented that this Escutcheon, part 48, is fixed to the barrel. Use a 6mm grub screw 6mm long to hold it to the barrell. Make sure the grub screw is not so long that the front action screw hits it, the grub screw, when tightening it up.
    Put the grub screw in place in the Encutcheon but don't tighten it up. Reassemble the action and then screw the grub screw in, that way it will be central.

    Main view
    CZ452main.jpg

    Escutcheon and 6mm x 6mm grub screw
    CZ452frontactionscrew.jpg
    I drilled off the top off this pin to make pushing it out a little better. Only bearly take the top off the pin. Used epoxey to keep in place after fitting the YoDave parts.
    CZ452trigger.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,393 ✭✭✭✭Vegeta


    If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

    Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

    Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope trned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel. Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommen doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point

    Some useful info here


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    I never thought of posting a TIP for all Remington users with injection molded factory stocks!

    A bedding job for under €10 DIY
    Fill the recoil lug hole with epoxy putty, most good Ind hardware stores will have ~€8 for a tube, fill recoil lug slot, tape barrel with masking tape until you have the barrel floating.
    Tighten rifle to stock and leave overnight.

    in morning remove stock gingerly from rifle action, you will notice your recoil lug is longer.
    remove masking tape off barrel.
    Refit barrel/action into stock "gingerly"
    Tighten bolts, gingerly taking each bolt revolution at a time to ensure even tightness

    Take out and get best ammo you can to zero and test.

    biggest TIP do not use shi** ammo to test as you are trying to show what can be done if all things are equal!

    Any other help needed feel free to PM me, or reply. Which ever you prefer!
    124193.jpg


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    If you have an SPS VTR or similar this trick will work on all of them

    124196.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭brocdubh


    here is a serious tip.go to a local butcher and get any old meet off him you can.put all the meat out in the field where u are goin to place the trap for bout 2 weeks.this will draw in all mags n g crows.not just in ur area but for like 10 miles round.make sure to clean up the meat when putting out the trap.place fresh meat in the trap and just wait n c the amount of them will catch u wont believe it.let us know how u gt on and if any1 is goin to try it.


    i often do that, often draws lamp shy foxes, one word of warning though depending on your area, ravens they will spot a free feed quicker than most.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,830 ✭✭✭Jonty


    Lads,

    Easy Outs are great for this:

    http://www.amazon.com/piece-Easy-Screw-Bolt-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE

    Any local hardware should have them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    said i'd stick this in here.
    made a set of shooting sticks yesterday since the .22mag hasn't a bi-pod.

    i went into the local hardware shop and got a length of mahogany trim 1"x1/2"
    i was looking for something a bit thicker but its all the had unless i went for 2x1
    the mahogany was stronger than the white deal and he gave it to me for the same price since he had nothing thicker. i also got a 8mm bolt just long enough to thread the nut threw, and two nails.
    €5 for the lot

    i cut the wood in half and got down onto the ground and crossed the sticks till i found a height that was comfortable for me in a shooting position. think it was about 33" for me where the sticks crossed
    i added about 6 inches onto that for the overall length to allow for the gun to rest on these pieces. i tried to hammer a nail in gently into the end of each piece but as soon as i touched it i saw it began to crack. this was for something to grip the ground. the wood was too thin so i decided to go for some small tacks which did the job and dug into the ground good.
    i sprayed it black and a bit of green just to make it a bit better looking.

    i tightened the bold tight enough so when closed it wouldn't open freely and covered the bolt and thread in superglue to keep it from opening again.

    next thing was a handle
    i found an old elastic in my room that was pretty big that i must have robbed last year in school. one of them thick strong ones.
    wrapped it around the just under the nut twice. theres still plenty of stretch in it so i can now pull one piece of it, wrap it threw a belt ring in my pants and wrap it around the stick for a 3rd time. its great for carrying it and theres no weight at all in it and easy to flick off to use. i forget its there

    really handy and a hell of a lot better than firing off the shoulder.

    i know most of ye have bipods but its really handy for when high grass is in the way so i said i'd stick it in here.


    i looked online for anymore ideas but most of them are pretty similar


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,590 ✭✭✭Tackleberrywho


    garv123 wrote: »
    said i'd stick this in here.
    made a set of shooting sticks yesterday since the .22mag hasn't a bi-pod.

    i went into the local hardware shop and got a length of mahogany trim 1"x1/2"
    i was looking for something a bit thicker but its all the had unless i went for 2x1
    the mahogany was stronger than the white deal and he gave it to me for the same price since he had nothing thicker. i also got a 8mm bolt just long enough to thread the nut threw, and two nails.
    €5 for the lot

    i cut the wood in half and got down onto the ground and crossed the sticks till i found a height that was comfortable for me in a shooting position. think it was about 33" for me where the sticks crossed
    i added about 6 inches onto that for the overall length to allow for the gun to rest on these pieces. i tried to hammer a nail in gently into the end of each piece but as soon as i touched it i saw it began to crack. this was for something to grip the ground. the wood was too thin so i decided to go for some small tacks which did the job and dug into the ground good.
    i sprayed it black and a bit of green just to make it a bit better looking.

    i tightened the bold tight enough so when closed it wouldn't open freely and covered the bolt and thread in superglue to keep it from opening again.

    next thing was a handle
    i found an old elastic in my room that was pretty big that i must have robbed last year in school. one of them thick strong ones.
    wrapped it around the just under the nut twice. theres still plenty of stretch in it so i can now pull one piece of it, wrap it threw a belt ring in my pants and wrap it around the stick for a 3rd time. its great for carrying it and theres no weight at all in it and easy to flick off to use. i forget its there

    really handy and a hell of a lot better than firing off the shoulder.

    i know most of ye have bipods but its really handy for when high grass is in the way so i said i'd stick it in here.


    i looked online for anymore ideas but most of them are pretty similar

    Get a Timber dowel, cut in 3 lengths ~15"
    Drill through them ~2.5" from top, sharpen the bottom like a fencing post.
    Use Builders Orange line to tie together.

    You now have an adjustable tripod, I used one for years when I had feck all money.
    I still have them somewhere (God knows where)

    If you stick the sticks in the ground you have a serious steady base for the foreend of your rifle.

    I shot rabbits prone out past 200 with an old Mauser and my sticks.

    I can't find a pic online, however 3 dowels equal length, sharpened at one end, drilled at the other with small bit say 2mm and builders line, all under €5 and rock steady (just not as handy as a harris)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 935 ✭✭✭dicky82


    this might be what you call stating the bleeding obvious but i was watching a clip on deer stalking and at the end the dude was back home in his 'cold room' when asked about it he explained.

    he went to a 'breakers yard' for trucks. found a refridgerated truck that was due to be broken down, bought the trailor (the cold room) for £100 had it shipped home, he was lucky that the fridge motors were still working so he had a working cold room from the word go, even if the motors weren't working im sure you could get them fixed handy enough.

    anyway he spent a few quid installing a partition and a butchers block and was all set up.

    so to those who have pipe dreams about a cold room this might be an option?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 671 ✭✭✭Feidhlim Dignan


    stick up a link to the video im sure lads would like a look at it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 935 ✭✭✭dicky82


    here's the clip, its the bit about the deer shooting at the start of the clip.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Just found this link where they show in detail how to bed a rifle.

    http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022#Post1167022

    Just one of the images
    2jb85kk.jpg

    __________________________________________________________
    __________________________________________________________

    Another here "Stress-Free Pillar Bedding"

    http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

    beddingfinal.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    I got new low mount sfor my CZ 22lr Varmint and got round to fitting them today. All done on the kitchen counter worktop, and the rifle was on a Harris bi-pod @6" and it has a pod lever to realy keep it tight and stop it moving and I used a rear bag to level up the rifle.
    It's important to have the rifle level on all plains.


    First level up the rifle in both directions. Very important to do this. And make sure not to move it off level when putting on the mounts.

    mountingascope2.jpgmountingascope1.jpg



    Put the mounts on the dovetail and tighten up. Check that alls still level

    mountingascope5.jpg

    mountingascope6B.jpg

    And here's why I don't use the rings as a reference level.
    Note I had reversed the rings around to show how much they can be out of level.

    mountingascope7A.jpgmountingascope7B.jpg



    Now place the scope in the mount and lightly tighten down the screws, leave enough of a gap under each ring on both sides. You still need to be able to rotate the scope in the mounts so only tighten enough so that it's nice and easy but still grips the scope

    mountingascope9A.jpg


    Put the level on the top elevation turret and level up the scope.

    mountingascope8.jpg



    Now using 2 allen keys tighten up both ring screws at the same time keeping the level bubble in the centre.
    By using 2 allen keys it makes it easy to keep it all level.

    mountingascope10.jpg

    Sin A Bhfuil


    Just found this link that shows a way to check that you have set the scope up dead level to the bore/shot

    http://livingprepared.blogspot.com/2...pe-set-up.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    QuickTarget Unlimited Lapua Edition free download
    Free download from here
    http://www.lapua.com/en/customer-cen...a-edition.html

    And also the manual is free to download on that page as well


    QuickTarget Unlimited Lapua Edition (QTU Lapua Edition) is a sophisticated exterior ballistic software that utilizes extremely accurate Doppler radar measurements of bullet trajectories. These continuous air drag coefficients make it possible to calculate the trajectory of your bullet much more accurately than using the simplifed one-number B.C.
    Lapua is first to offer this radar data and this accurately verified ballistic data for civilian long-range shooters.
    Basically, as starting values you will need only bullet type and muzzle velocity. The software will calculate e.g. bullet drop, velocity and energy as a function of distance and the flying time. If wind conditions (direction and speed) are known you can calculate also wind drift. The program has also many features useful for adjusting your scope. Specific features of the software can be found in the manual downloadable from Lapua website downloads section.
    QTU Lapua Edition is a special version of normal QTU that is tailored for Lapua bullets.

    _____________________________________________________________
    _____________________________________________________________

    OnTarget Precision Calculator free download
    I just came across this handy program for the PC again, MAC version is there as well, and thought I'd share it with you's all.

    It gives the marksman a tool to accurately measure and analyze bullet hole groups in their targets. It has a simple and intuitive user interface. You import an image from your scanner or digital camera. Set up parameters including target distance and bullet hole size, and position bullet sized circles over the holes. Group information is automatically calculated and displayed.

    Good review from here
    http://www.6mmbr.com/ontargetsoftware.html

    Download the free version from
    http://www.ontargetshooting.com/download1.html

    Video here
    http://www.ontargetshooting.com/vide...rgetdemo2.html

    ______________________________________________________________
    ______________________________________________________________

    Hawke Ballistic Reticles Calculator

    download from here, you will need to fill in your E-mail address.
    http://www.hawkeoptics.com/global/brc/index.php

    With BRC you can - Choose a preferred preset set-up suitable for your calibre* - Choose a preferred reticle for your shooting requirements - Adjust the presets to either work in metric or standard (imperial). - Change zero distances, muzzle velocity, magnification and Estimated Deterioration value (ED). - Plot your rifles trajectory and find the most suitable aim points. - Carry out advanced range finding calculations.

    Take the information into the field - The BRC allows you to print trajectory graphs, reticle images and range finding calculations.The BRC will save settings for future reference.

    Advanced software designed to ensure the shooter is always on target. Its simple to increase your accuracy and get the most out of your SR or MAP reticle.

    The BRC is quick to download and navigate around.

    The calculations produce accurate results in the BRC program, that translate into accuracy and precision in the field.

    ______________________________________________________________
    ______________________________________________________________

    BigGameInfo balistics calculator - an online program.

    Available from here
    http://www.biggameinfo.com/BalCalc.aspx

    ______________________________________________________________
    ______________________________________________________________

    This is the new home of JBM's online ballistics resources

    Trajectory
    Calculate a trajectory from bullet, velocity, firearm and atmospheric parameters.

    Calculators and Range Cards

    ____________________________________________________________
    ____________________________________________________________


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    How to shim your scope to correct Low/Hi Point Of Impact
    Here is a program that will allow you to calculate the effect of varying shim thicknesses.

    By the way, most aluminum cans are + .004".

    Ring distance is the distance between your scope rings centre to centre.

    http://www.twincityrodandgun.com/Sco...Calculator.htm


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Ok here are the Bench Rest targets

    BR Target15 per page 52mm box.doc


    BRtarget15toapageworddocimage.jpg

    Or 25 to a page the real 50m BR targets.
    BR Target 50m 25 a page.pdf


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Plenty of information and many types of bullets here...........


    The worlds foremost online resource for information on hunting cartridges,
    projectiles and their use on medium to large game.

    http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledge+Base.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    I use a set of tri-sticks for stalking and thought I'd add another rest to make them even more steady in the shot. I think Stoney Point make a set like this.

    I used a fishing telescopic rod rest as the extra leg. Its attached to the leg thats without the gun rest part at the top. I flattened the end of the rod rest and drilled a 6mm hole and then opened out the hole length-ways to make a slot where the 6mm bolt will go.

    I used an electrical earth pipe bonding strap and a long 6mm bolt (with the head cut off) with a Nylok nut to fix it to the tri-stick leg. I also cut off the screw fixing tag on the earth strap.

    I used a shoe lace at the top of the rest to stop the rest falling down and also a velcro strap the tie it to the tri-stick leg when not in use.

    So how good is it to keep the rifle in the aim???
    I was able to hit the centre of a 3 foot rock at 695 yards with the only 2 shots I took and shot the head off a rabbit at 200y with my 308 using Hornaday 155gr bullets

    Tri-sticks with telescopic rod rest
    IMG_0820.jpg


    Earth bonding strap
    electricalbondingstrap.jpg

    IMG_0819.jpg

    IMG_0818.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Just put this up for anyone looking for an easy way to haul deer out of the forests. You can use any length of rope and handy to use pullies as well.

    A portable winch, capstan, powered by a 2/4 stroke engine.

    http://www.portablewinch.com/en/05.asp
    acc_01.jpg



  • Registered Users Posts: 406 ✭✭The Big Fella


    Id hate tryna winch a deer 1/2 a mile with that yoke!:D It would take days. It looks like more hardship than pulling the deer with your own strength using the winch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    iStrelok iPhone screen grabs
    This program has now been updated since these screen grabs were taken.


    Opening screen and screen after tapping the calculate button. It saves the last load settings.
    Load data used is
    308 155gr bullet, BC=.435, zero=150y, scope height =1.5", MOA click value=1/4", MV=2800. And the target is loaded in @500y.

    Dscf1294.jpgDscf1295.jpg



    From the home screen tap the buttons to open the different data input screens.

    Dscf1299.jpgDscf1298.jpg
    Dscf1297.jpgDscf1300.jpg


    After tapping the Calculate button or Reticle button either of these two output screens will show the results.
    I have shown the Reticle output screen bigger as it shows the mildot reticel and the different elevation and windage text that is tagged to the mildot.
    And the target at the 500y range as a yellow round circle. If you had input windage as well the yellow target circle will be offset in the reticle screen as well.
    So if we look at the reticle output screen it shows the windage to allow for ie if there's 8MPH wind @right angle offset by the using the first mildot. 17MPH use the second mildot.
    The first elevation mildot is for a target at 300y use the second mildot if the target is at 416y.

    Dscf1295.jpgDscf1296.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,576 ✭✭✭garv123


    So first thing i done when i got the HMR today was try something i saw on youtube, I cant find the video again.

    It was basically a sling that was modified to serve as a rear rest using aero-board.


    I got a new printer and i used the length of aero-board that came with it protecting it.
    It was 5mm thick so i doubled it.
    I cut two lengths which worked out at 220x45x5 mm

    I then taped them together below with loads of plaster tape to give them a bit of strength to stop them from cracking when been bent. I used alot more tape around the middle and end. The tape is also handy to stop any bits of it falling off making a mess.

    This is how it looked.
    2011-11-03153150.jpg?t=1320338448

    I then lined it up along the end of the sling by the sling stud and taped it on using insulating tape. I taped it the whole way down and that was it done.

    2011-11-03153933.jpg?t=1320338526


    Photos are off my phone so poor enough. (i also ran out of black tape so finished it off with red for now)


    It works well. I didnt head outside since its lashing rain but was lying on the floor using a boot as a front rest and i was able to hold the gun a lot more steady using this the sling as a back rest. It can be bent a bit for shooting at different angles and heights.

    A lot handier than carrying around a rear bag rest when out lamping.

    Free too :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    I got this torch in from DinoDirect.com to give a review on.

    Details:
    UltraFire™ C8 SSC P7 900Lumens LED Flashlight (1 x 18650) @$22.99 inc. postage. No battery and takes 1 x 18650 type.


    http://www.dinodirect.com/ultrafire-...1-x-18650.html

    Full review click here
    187839.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 392 ✭✭rabbit assassin


    winchestertarget.jpg

    targetin.jpg

    5bullseyes.jpg

    nratarget.jpg

    Basically same size as a rabbit. Great practice for head shots
    ghogtarget.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭daithi55


    handy to no for anyone using these type guns



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    Parts breakdown and schematic of the Baikal IZH-27, but it is in cyrilic script. :D

    http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/3362/85362.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Here is a good read on why to hang your Deer.

    A Chemistry Lesson
    Despite its different taste and lower levels of fat, venison is very similar to beef. It contains the same basic enzymes, particularly lactic acid, and goes through similar changes after the animal dies. First, the muscles go into rigor mortis, a stiffening lasting at most 24 hours. Butchering a deer during rigor mortis is one of the worst things you can do. It can cause a phenomenon called shortening, where the muscles contract and remain tougher than if butchering took place a day later. Proper aging begins as soon as rigor mortis ends-and this process is definitely not controlled rot. Rot is zillions of bacteria eating the muscle cells, their waste products creating the familiar stench of decaying flesh. Bacteria attack only after meat is exposed to the air, and bacterial rot is accelerated by higher temperatures. It doesn't happen at all if the meat is frozen. To properly age your deer, you must keep it at temperatures above freezing and below about 40 degrees. This holds bacteria (and rot) at bay, allowing natural enzymes to do their work.

    Full article here ................
    http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/other/recipes/2006/01/deer-hang-time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Did this to my Kidd/Ruger 10/22.

    I never did like the single action screw and I could move the barrel/action sideways as there was play at the back of the action after many years of use.


    I got someone to turn down a plumbing gas fitting to make the pillar and set it in the stock with Devcon 10110.

    Brassbeddingpillar1.jpg


    I re-tapped the single action screw thread out to 6mm and used a 6mm allen key head screw

    6mmactionscrew1.jpg
    6mmactionscrew2.jpg

    Drilled a 6mm hole in the back of the action. Small hole first to transfer the hole location to the stock.

    6mmactionrearhole.jpg


    Then drilled a 4mm hole in the stock where the transfered mark was and fitted a 4mm allen head screw in it.
    I had to grind down the allen head to a tight fit 6mm to go into the 6mm action hole.

    rearactionfixing1.jpg
    rearactionfixing2.jpg
    Brassbeddingpillarrearactionfixingjpg.jpg
    rearactionfixing4.jpg




    Well its rock solid in the action now. I'll get out and see did the groups tighten up any at the weekend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Here is how I was able to mount a video Camcorder to my scope. The rifle is a Sako 75 .308. And the Camcorder is a Panasonic SDR-S70 with x78 optical zoom. and records to an SD card.

    I don't need to say too much. Only that the 2 picatinny mounts/rings only use the lower half and they get screwed to a small plate. This plate is then fixed to the Camcorder, through a 1/4" hole, with the usual Camera tripod mount thumb screw.

    I haven't use it yet as I didn't get a shot off but I'll upload a video ASAP.

    I put a small bit of a credit card under the back of the Camcorder to drop the the lens just a little. Now the center of the scope and the Camcorder line up, well out to 300m anyway.


    Got this Picatinny scope rail mount from Dealextreme.com @$7, they are available in both 1" and 30mm mounts.

    Picatinnyscoperailmount_zps7564b374.jpg

    IMG_1638_zps53209bac.jpg

    IMG_1639_zpse29b56d4.jpg

    IMG_1640_zpsad511878.jpg

    IMG_1643_zpsa2e20ee6.jpg

    IMG_1641_zps098a41b2.jpg

    IMG_1644_zps207028e5.jpg

    IMG_1642_zpsc7ba4f27.jpg

    IMG_1644_zps207028e5.jpg

    IMG_1649_zps90617f8b.jpg

    IMG_1648_zps2b615f49.jpg

    IMG_1647_zps64056af5.jpg

    IMG_1650_zps0cf9247e.jpg

    IMG_1651_zps82de00da.jpg

    IMG_1653_zps72207f00.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Home security with an IP Webcam Just thought I'd share this security with you all.separator.gif

    From this boards.ie thread. Read replies and more info here.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=83078400#post83078400

    I was just looking through the new Argos catalogue and seen the Foscam one @€;95 ish . Spend hours then yesterday looking at Youtube vids and reviews. Then checked it out online, and ordered the cheap clone one @€;49 inc P&P from 'LightInTheBox.com' as shown below at but only at this price today.
    .
    It connects to your home wired or wireless network where you can control and view the output on a iPhone (any 3G phone) or connected laptop or PC.

    Got the app for my iPhone and one for my PC so just to wait for it to come. Got an e-mail to say it was already sent out yesterday.

    It will send you an alert and photo when it detects motion via e-mail so you always have a record. Set the iPhone to 'Fetch' the mail and you get an instant alert of motion in the house.


    OR use as a baby monitor to view the baby is safe. It can also receive and send audio.

    review here
    http://ip-camera-review.toptenreview...am-review.html

    ip-camera-wifi-802-11-b-g-m-jpeg-free-ddns-bounded-supprot-16-preset-position-motion-detection-black-white_skk1318998596296.jpg


    Setup Youtube vid



  • Registered Users Posts: 62 ✭✭Downwind


    This is a great trick have used it and its good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 62 ✭✭Downwind


    The only down side to this is you might have to keep a coupe of dead crows in the freezer hidden from the kitchen commander . Means that you have a coupe of real crow decoys all the time . Have to admit this guy is clever.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    A few photo's of a CZ 452 .22lr that I pillar bedded a couple of years ago. A custom stock from I don't know where. Wish I never sold that rifle.

    CZvarmint1.jpg

    Bed the pillar first and let the Devcon 10110 go hard first before bedding the action.
    Use shoe polish on the action to stop the Devcon adhering to the action, polish the action up to a shine.


    452customstockbedding06.jpg

    452customstockbedding04.jpg
    452customstockbedding03.jpg

    452customstockbedding02.jpg

    And a Timmey trigger fitted

    Timneytrigger.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,493 ✭✭✭long range shooter


    Bryan Litz gives a good explanation on scope tracking and error.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,645 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Laser Boresighters are NOT a tool designed to get you on the bull from the off, but a tool to get you onto paper.

    The laser is a "line of sight" device. Meaning it shines a light in a straight line. No bullet travels like that so it can never zero the rifle for you. What it can do is help you see where the bore of the barrel is pointing, to a certain degree of accuracy, and then you can asdjust the scope to match the laser's dot. Once on paper you can fine tune the POI by adjusting after each shot.

    For the price it's not worth it unless you are zeroing on a regular basis. A look down the bore will do the same job for free. The most any zeroing of a rifle should take is 3 shots, perhaps up to 5.

    Here is what i do. This brings you from mounting the scope to zeroing.

    Start at 50 yds. Check Rail/bases are securely fixed to receiver. Place scope onto receiver/rail/bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either spirit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Tighten two screws at a time in opposite sides so as to bring the top of the ring down squarely. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

    Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the minutes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you look down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.

    6034073

    Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles) can be seen sitting perfectly central in the "ring" made by the muzzle.

    6034073


    Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

    Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

    Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

    Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

    Hope this is of some help.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,064 ✭✭✭clivej


    Ruger 10/22 Another Pillor bedding and action rear hold down.
    Re-threaded the action screw 6mm.
    Made up a pillor from a plumbers brass gas fitting (turned down to 20mm)
    Used Devcon 10110 (10112 is the euro code) £30 500gr pot in the UK
    Used the flat type wood bit, 20mm wide, to fit the pillor and drilled out the hole to 11mm (or a little bigger)
    Drilled out the back of the action for cleaning and then to take the rear hold down screw
    Rear hold down screw is a 5mm hex head bolt put in a drill, held against a grinder and then tapper the head to fit the rear action hole
    Use a cleaning rod down the barrel to make a mark on the stock for the rear action screw, then drill out for the 5mm tappered screw
    Use a thin coating of clear shoe polish to stop the Devcon sticking to any parts
    Mask off the action with masking tape and use the polish on it

    437256.jpg
    437257.jpg
    437258.jpg
    437259.jpg
    437266.jpg
    437260.jpg

    Pillor made from plumbers gas fitting
    437267.jpeg


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