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A quick warning. Check yer bars!

  • 18-09-2011 11:08AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭


    Morning all.
    I was cycling home on Thursday evening, coming from town(Dublin) on Kevin St. Just passing through the crossroads when the handling went slack and I couldn't change gears.
    As pictured, the bar had snapped at the clamp so I was just holding it in my hand, doing about 35kph. I hit the deck hard and made the road to path transition using my arse as a bumper. Nothing broken other than my helmet. Lots of road rash and sore everything. Went to the hospital to get the noggin checked, all ok.
    Any ways, I had crashed the bike before and should've inspected the bar more carefully for signs of stress or cracking.
    I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir but for those who wouldn't think about it, if you crash your bike, check your bar!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,005 ✭✭✭ashleey


    Blimey!

    Glad that your are not too badly hurt and a good warning post.

    As an extra, you should check that the bolts are tightened to the correct torque settings of about 5 or 6 Nm depending on your bar and stem recommendations. If they are too tight you could crush the bar and weaken it.


  • Administrators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 78,456 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Beasty


    ashleey wrote: »
    Blimey!

    Glad that your are not too badly hurt and a good warning post.

    As an extra, you should check that the bolts are tightened to the correct torque settings of about 5 or 6 Nm depending on your bar and stem recommendations. If they are too tight you could crush the bar and weaken it.
    I was just about to say something similar. It looks like there's a crack on the inside where the clamp is. It could have been caused by the previous accident or by overtightening

    Hope you're OK and back on the bike soon OP


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,952 ✭✭✭funnights74


    Jaysus thats a scary pic, but at least you're still above ground. Apart from the torque issue there must have been a weakness in the structure of the handle bar for that to happen.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭'68 Fastback


    Cheers lads. Frightened the crap out of me alright. I'm almost certain the bolts were too tight, that's a good point. Just hope this'll prevent it happening to someone else. I've been cycling in the city for fifteen years and I think it was that experience that got me onto the path rather than into the traffic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,105 ✭✭✭morana


    sme thing happened to me a few weeks ago with my Ritchey stem..loads of cracks in it. Every year do a routine check of all the parts.....


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    The previous crash may have had something to do with it, but Id be more looking at the bolts on the stem being overtightened , You dont want to be introducing areas of uneven stress into aluminium.

    Glad to hear your okay :) , not a fun thing to happen at all. Thank god thats never happend to me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 407 ✭✭Diego Murphy


    Don't want to go into detail, but know of someone whose carbon bike snapped in 2 coming down a hill at speed. Supposedly had had a crash previously, but sure we all know you're meant to get them xrayed but who really does.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,009 ✭✭✭✭Run_to_da_hills


    They don't make em like they used to. :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,130 ✭✭✭coolbeans


    Wowzers, that looks messy OP! I've often had flashes of going head over heels at 60kph downhill due to the bars rotating in the stem, but structural failure like that is a whole new nightmare. The issue of torque and how much to use when servicing a bike doesn't get the attention it deserves IMO. It's a bit of a Goldilocks scenario as far as I can see...too little and you're in trouble, to much and you're in bigger trouble.
    I grew up on a farm and turned many a spanner on John Deere's finest and I've got to say the experience hindered me when it came to bikes. The amount of threads I've wrecked due to applying tractor levels of torque to a bike have left me insecure in my bike maintenance skills and I often struggle to know whether it's too tight or to too loose. It's a bit of an art it seems.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 725 ✭✭✭Keep_Her_Lit


    Aluminium alloy parts in particular are also susceptible to fatigue failure. Even if components are correctly fitted and haven't been crashed, they can fail after sufficiently vigorous and/or prolonged use.

    I've had two sets of handlebars snap while riding. I came off on both occasions. One of those spills cost me a broken collarbone and I was lucky that it didn't cost me my life, as I went skating through a red light on my ear out into the middle of a busy T-junction.

    I now replace my bars and stem every few years, regardless of how healthy they look. It seems odd to retire components that look just fine but I regard it as an insurance cost.

    IIRC, about 15 or so years ago there was an increase in the number of MTB XC riders reporting broken stems, bars and in some cases, seatposts. I believe that component manufacturers had taken the weight-weenyism just a little too far.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,660 ✭✭✭Gavin


    coolbeans wrote: »
    I grew up on a farm and turned many a spanner on John Deere's finest and I've got to say the experience hindered me when it came to bikes. The amount of threads I've wrecked due to applying tractor levels of torque to a bike have left me insecure in my bike maintenance skills and I often struggle to know whether it's too tight or to too loose. It's a bit of an art it seems.

    Just use a torque wrench, no more worrying !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,726 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    I snapped the Alu seatpost On my old hardtail.
    Showed no signs of wear and there was nothing that could of caused it to weaken, no bad falls putting stress on it or the likes.

    Parts just seem to diminish after a few years of use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,293 ✭✭✭✭Mint Sauce


    Flip!!!

    :eek::eek::eek:

    I thought snapping my seat post or cranks were bad.

    But thats like stuff out of my nightmares. Glad your okay OP.

    But how do I know if I've over tightened and caused possible stress. Every so often, and prior to any big cycles cycles I would check over the nuts and bolts on my ride, but now that concerns me.


  • Administrators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 78,456 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Beasty


    I carry a Ritchey Torque Key in the saddlebag - it's designed for tightening bolts on carbon stems/bars to 5Nm

    ritchey-torque-key-ind.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,908 ✭✭✭pprendeville


    Aluminium or carbon wrapped aluminium stems IMO are safer than full carbon stems in the event of crashes. Also that bit cheaper and sometimes lighter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    Good to hear you survived relatively intact. Does look like a failure due to overtightening the clamp. I have a free torque wrench coming with the new bike. Before I just used 'the force' to tighten bolts, usually a quarter turn more after it stsrts to tighten.

    Strange, the way we try to get away with not using the correct and not so expensive tools on our costly bikes. A bit like sticking a 20 or 30 euro lock on a bike worth a grand!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭'68 Fastback


    Thanks for all the comments, didn't want to worry anyone. Just to clarify, it's an ITM alu bar in an alu stem that's about 5 years old and has been crashed twice before. It really is my own fault, I should have paid more attention to my maintenance routine. It's my commuter bike and doesn't get half the love it deserves.
    I'm sure that over torquing the stem nuts played a part but I'm certain the two previous crashes did the majority of the damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    '68 wrote:
    Thanks for all the comments, didn't want to worry anyone. Just to clarify, it's an ITM alu bar in an alu stem that's about 5 years old and has been crashed twice before. It really is my own fault, I should have paid more attention to my maintenance routine. It's my commuter bike and doesn't get half the love it deserves.
    I'm sure that over torquing the stem nuts played a part but I'm certain the two previous crashes did the majority of the damage.

    Have a look at the grain of the metal, if its smooth over a part then suddenly rough thats a prime example of metal fatigue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭'68 Fastback


    @Kona. The top half of the break looks really clean. Then the bottom half looks like it tore away. Is this what you mean?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    '68 wrote:
    @Kona. The top half of the break looks really clean. Then the bottom half looks like it tore away. Is this what you mean?

    Yup exactley what I mean. Metal fatigue is your culprit!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭'68 Fastback


    So was it the crashes or the bolts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    '68 wrote:
    So was it the crashes or the bolts?

    Aluminium is suspect to metal fatigue and has a definate life cycle. An example being the airframe of a aircraft, its only rated for so many cycles. Overtightening and crashes or sharp edges will lead to introduction areas of stress into the metal, its these areas that slowly grow into cracks, and over time it breaks, as you have seen. Usually you can catch it by inspection, but its hard when there is paint etc covering the metal.

    Only thing you can do is inspect the parts for signs of fatigue, its the little things like this ,where a good mechanic earns his money, even if you have any mates that are mechanical engineers or deal with materials, they will be able to see the common points where fatigue will begin. Or even if you take a read of a materials book for engineers, it goes into depth about fatigue. Fatigue is a serious issue with metal failure.

    IMO it was a combination of age, crash and bolts that caused it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 389 ✭✭'68 Fastback


    Cheers for that Kona. I'll be more vigilant in future.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    '68 wrote:
    Thanks for all the comments, didn't want to worry anyone. Just to clarify, it's an ITM alu bar in an alu stem that's about 5 years old and has been crashed twice before.

    Hmm, I did the same thing to an ITM bar some while back. I reckon it's all the power we're laying down... :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,686 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    Beasty wrote: »
    I carry a Ritchey Torque Key in the saddlebag - it's designed for tightening bolts on carbon stems/bars to 5Nm

    ritchey-torque-key-ind.jpg

    that looks the business but the link no longer exists - or its sold out. Might have to invest in one


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,940 ✭✭✭4leto


    When I seen the OP I immediately thought, that's just a freak, but then I read the other post,,yIKES,,.

    I suppose with the modern bikes its a fine tolerance between weight and just enough strength. But with the state of some of our roads and parts of our cycle network we really should be thinking of going back to the old postman bikes.

    But glad it worked out for you


  • Administrators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 78,456 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Beasty


    that looks the business but the link no longer exists - or its sold out. Might have to invest in one
    Sorry, there was a typo in the link

    Try this one - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-torque-key/

    They're out of stock at wiggle at present though

    Yo0u could also try Slane Cycles or CRC where stock is due in tomorrow


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 112 ✭✭Pat Kavanagh


    What's the cause of the paint being scraped off the clamp?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,190 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    What's the cause of the paint being scraped off the clamp?
    Bike fell to the right and the stem scraped off the ground, I'd imagine.

    This thread made me paranoid. I've given out here tonnes of times about my creaking bars that I couldn't stop creaking. Checked them a couple of weeks back and found the bars pinched/dented at the clamp where I'd overtightened it. D'oh. Ah sure they're grand, they've been fine up to now, right?

    Saw this thread and immediately went and ordered a new pair of bars and a torque wrench :D


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