STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

whitelightrider · 02-12-2011 3:20pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Yes the flue should be sealed, so don't use the stove due to the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Could you take a few photos of your fireplace and flue pipe and how it goes into the chimney. Or if you don't have a camera a description.

Stove Fan:)

Hey Stove Fan,

Ill try and get photos tonight. At the minute the flexi flue is connected to the back of the stove and sealed with fire cement. The rest of the flue is simply pushed into the chimey opening and pushed about 1 meter into the chimney. We did have fireproof expanding foam sealing around the flue but the chimney cleaner knocked that out when he was cleaning it.

whitelightrider · 02-12-2011 6:02pm

Stove fan, here are 2 photos looking up the chimney showing the flexi flue going into the chimney.

Any advice would be appreciated as we've a baby due in January so I want to get this sorted.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71325704@N08/6442286261/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71325704@N08/6442281643/

JMSE · 02-12-2011 9:15pm

Reyman wrote: »

Which are you putting in JMSE - the esse 300 or the 350?
Is a chimney liner needed?

Reyman its a 350 GreenSwitch (14.7kw), different to a normal 350 SE (7kw). The greenswitch is a boiler inset, while yours is a normal non-boiler inset. Am not qualified in this stuff, but am satisfied myself that a liner isnt needed if you have a typical modern 9" clay flue-pipe which is in good condition, just have a sealed adaptor to take the 6" from the stove to the 8or9" at the chimney.

The Esse site is very good on detail, I got the details on the 300 series here

Still havent had it installed so cant comment any further

cjpm · 02-12-2011 9:47pm

Is the firebox in a Stanley Cara very small or could it take a 300mm (12 inch) long log??

How does a Boru Fiachra compare??

Noreen1 · 02-12-2011 10:18pm

Does anyone have any experience of the Mulberry Beckett?

I'm torn between the Beckett and a Stanley Erin (mainly because they're available in the locality).

In particular, I've read online that the Beckett is quite sore on fuel. On the other hand, I've also heard that the Erin has to be practically dismantled to install a new boiler.

Does anyone know whether the boiler is hard to change on the Beckett?
That could well be the deciding factor. Right now, I'm leaning towards the Beckett.

Thanks in advance.

Noreen

Stove Fan · 02-12-2011 10:48pm

whitelightrider wrote: »

Stove fan, here are 2 photos looking up the chimney showing the flexi flue going into the chimney.

Any advice would be appreciated as we've a baby due in January so I want to get this sorted.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71325704@N08/6442286261/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71325704@N08/6442281643/

Hi:) First of all congratulations with the baby:)

The flue installation is wrong and dangerous. Please remove the expanding foam as it could combust You have two options to do it safely.

Some would say fill around the pipe with plaster of paris or similar but it would crack or fall out. The safest way is these options.

Option 1

Buy a clay liner sump adapter
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/single-skin-flue.html
and cut it to the size/shape needed and seal it to the slope of the gatherer and then fit rigid pipe from it to the stove. The flexible liner should not connect to the stove it should be the rigid black enamel flue or the stainless finish.

Option two.
Build a closure plate.
Build a horizontal framework round the base of the angled part with angle iron and then cut a piece of steel sheet to the required size and screw and seal to the angle iron with self tapping screws and cut a circular hole in it for the flue pipe from the stove to pass through and any gaps sealed with fire cement.

Non of these are the best job as the base of your clay liners support are not flat but as you don't seem to be getting tar down the chimney it should work and be safe.

If your house is a bungalow I would seriously consider getting the chimney fully lined with a flexible liner. This would eradicate all the above problems, but would still need the rigid enamel flue pipe to connect to the stove and then joined to the flexible stainless liner.

Stove Fan:)

whitelightrider · 02-12-2011 11:25pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) First of all congratulations with the baby:)

The flue installation is wrong and dangerous. Please remove the expanding foam as it could combust You have two options to do it safely.

Some would say fill around the pipe with plaster of paris or similar but it would crack or fall out. The safest way is these options.

Option 1

Buy a clay liner sump adapter
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/single-skin-flue.html
and cut it to the size/shape needed and seal it to the slope of the gatherer and then fit rigid pipe from it to the stove. The flexible liner should not connect to the stove it should be the rigid black enamel flue or the stainless finish.

Option two.
Build a closure plate.
Build a horizontal framework round the base of the angled part with angle iron and then cut a piece of steel sheet to the required size and screw and seal to the angle iron with self tapping screws and cut a circular hole in it for the flue pipe from the stove to pass through and any gaps sealed with fire cement.

Non of these are the best job as the base of your clay liners support are not flat but as you don't seem to be getting tar down the chimney it should work and be safe.

If your house is a bungalow I would seriously consider getting the chimney fully lined with a flexible liner. This would eradicate all the above problems, but would still need the rigid enamel flue pipe to connect to the stove and then joined to the flexible stainless liner.

Stove Fan:)

My cousin installed it for us and the expanding foam is fireproof. But we definitely need to get someone in to install it properly as the foam has fallen out since we got the chimney cleaned. Ill check to see if there's anyone around Galway that can install the stove properly for me as theres no point in having the stove if we cant light it.

suitseir · 03-12-2011 12:15pm

I have a waterford stanley non-boiler oil stove. I have been waiting for the plumber who commissioned it some years back, to come and service it. I rang him in September and am STILL waiting for this guy to come and service it.

He is busy....so much for a recession.........and I am wondering could an "ordinary" plumber service it? I am living in Co. Galway and at this stage am desperate to have it up and running so if anybody knows of plumbers familiar with this type of work I would welcome referrals.........the flame is non-existent and it badly needs a service after the harsh winter last year I had it on day and night. I reckon the wick etc. is exhausted. Even a plumber further afield like Co. Tipp or Co. Clare......I am within easy reach of these counties too.!!!!:(

cocoman · 03-12-2011 7:01pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Unfortunately for building regulations you need 300mm clearance above the stove:( and 150mm either side of the stove, which is fine. These gaps are to allow air to circulate and stop the stove from overheating or if cast iron its at risk of cracking the stove.

If you had a deep enough hearth you could fit the stove in front of the opening:) Morso squirrel, dunsley highlander 5. Woodwarm fireview and Aarrow ecoburn 5 are possibles. The first three are very very good make.

You say its a fireplace thats open on either side? Would it be possible to raise the height of the fireplace? I would then fit a double sided stove like a woodwarm fireview range or enigma.

If you were not bothered about being double sided I would seriously consider an inset stove and seal the other side of the fireplace up.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan.
I have attached a couple of pics of the ope which might be helpful. I know the clearance isn't ideal but I was hoping that as the ope is open on both sides this would help with the air circulation around the stove. I was also considering getting as ecofan to circulate the hot air. Any thoughts?

Stove Fan · 03-12-2011 8:36pm

cocoman wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan.
I have attached a couple of pics of the ope which might be helpful. I know the clearance isn't ideal but I was hoping that as the ope is open on both sides this would help with the air circulation around the stove. I was also considering getting as ecofan to circulate the hot air. Any thoughts?

Hi:) Very tight unfortunately:( If you could lower the base that would be ideal:) Seek the advice of a fireplace shop as to me it's not high enough for air circulation although the ecofan would help.

Consider a double sided stove after lowering the base. I like woodwarm stoves.

Stove Fan:)

cocoman · 03-12-2011 8:51pm

Cheers Stove Fan

Reyman · 03-12-2011 10:31pm

JMSE wrote: »

Reyman its a 350 GreenSwitch (14.7kw), different to a normal 350 SE (7kw). The greenswitch is a boiler inset, while yours is a normal non-boiler inset. Am not qualified in this stuff, but am satisfied myself that a liner isnt needed if you have a typical modern 9" clay flue-pipe which is in good condition, just have a sealed adaptor to take the 6" from the stove to the 8or9" at the chimney.

The Esse site is very good on detail, I got the details on the 300 series here

Still havent had it installed so cant comment any further

That's a pretty powerful machine! I'll be very interested to hear how you find it.

whitelightrider · 04-12-2011 11:08pm

Folks does anyone know someone in Galway that could install a stove for me. We have it installed at the minute but as stove fan pointed out its not done properly.
Many thanks,
G

Coles · 05-12-2011 11:26pm

Great thread.

Has anyone had any experience of the Henley Tolka stove? I have a friend who had it installed with the rear flue outlet but he has been very disappointed by the draw despite the chimney previously having a perfectly fine open fire. The flue all seems to be properly installed, but inside the stove it appears to me that the boiler obstructs the flue outlet too much.

Are these stoves actually suited to the rear outlet or would it work better using the stove top outlet?

Many thanks for any insights anyone has on these particular stoves.

daiboc · 06-12-2011 5:31pm

hi all, I am looking for some information on boiler stoves. I currently have back boiler but was thinking of changing to boiler stove but have had many mixed reviews, ive been told i need a 20 kw stove which is pretty large, I was talking to plumber today he currently has large but says he is taking it out because it uses buckets of coal and even he lights fire at 5 in evening the rads only get luke warm around 9. so im in two minds now any advice appreciated.

Daiboc.

Stove Fan · 06-12-2011 5:54pm

daiboc wrote: »

hi all, I am looking for some information on boiler stoves. I currently have back boiler but was thinking of changing to boiler stove but have had many mixed reviews, ive been told i need a 20 kw stove which is pretty large, I was talking to plumber today he currently has large but says he is taking it out because it uses buckets of coal and even he lights fire at 5 in evening the rads only get luke warm around 9. so im in two minds now any advice appreciated.

Daiboc.

We only use our boiler stove to heat our rads and have no other boiler for backup. It heats the rads superbly and gets them very hot in around 1-1.5 hours but starts heating them after around 30 minutes of lighting the fire.

We have 5 rads and hot water from the stove. We have it lit for 7 months of the year and last winter burnt 45 40kg bags of coal. lit generally for 13 hours most days.

It sounds like the plumber hasn't sized the back boiler to the radiator load of the heating requirements so the rads never get that hot as the boiler is undersized:(.

If you measure your rad sizes and say if they are single or double rads I can give you a very rough quide to the boiler stove size you need.

What size is the room where the stove is going and its insulation levels?

You can't just install any big stove as it has to be sized to the heating load and room heating requirements.

Another thing is totally ignore the stove manufacturers that quote the number of rads as rads come in all sizes and outputs.

Stove Fan:)

daiboc · 07-12-2011 9:13pm

Hi stove fan

Thanks for your reply. I have 5 double rads at 6'6" and 5 single rads at 4'
and 2 single at 5' so i think this would need a big boiler. i suppose you could take 1 double off as this is in room where stove will be.thanks
Daiboc.

niallo32 · 07-12-2011 9:36pm

I have a Stanley Erin boiler stove.

I open the main valve all the way for the first ten minutes or so when lighting it then close it all the way to zero on the main valve.

It still seems to burn really fast - where is the secondary valve I can close as ideally I just want this burning slowly in the background as I also have gas..

jeje7355 · 07-12-2011 9:47pm

Hi all

Great thread but am a bit boggled:eek: Looking for a multifuel stove to fit below
GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=e611ab5c-2008-11e1-b294-001e0bcba7b0&Aux=54|0|8CE822CCE5B23F0||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att

GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=e611ab5c-2008-11e1-b294-001e0bcba7b0&Aux=54|0|8CE822CCE5B23F0||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att

Dimensions of ope are 440w x 440D x 445H

6 year old house with an 8" clay flue. It needs to heat at least a room 7.2m x 6m. There is great heat from an open fire here and was looking at Tripp 4 as easiest option and no re-lining of chimney needed but I'm not sure. Budget is small!

Thanks for any advice you can give

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 12:07am

daiboc wrote: »

Hi stove fan

Thanks for your reply. I have 5 double rads at 6'6" and 5 single rads at 4'
and 2 single at 5' so i think this would need a big boiler. i suppose you could take 1 double off as this is in room where stove will be.thanks
Daiboc.

Hi:) I have took one large double off for the room with the stove.

On my very rough calculations using rads that are 600mm in height you need 23.9 kw to heat the rads plus 3 kw to heat the hot water cylinder.

This is a very big stove with a combined boiler and room output of 28.5kw, which with the size of your rads is needed:)

The only real candidate is the aarrow stratford TF90B
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/stratford-tf90b-boiler-stove.html

This produces 24kw to water and 4.5 kw to the room with the stove.

This is the largest boiler stove I know.

If the heating system is zoned it could have a less powerful boiler stove and only heat the zone thats needed and not heat all the rads at the same time.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 12:53am

jeje7355 wrote: »

Hi all

Great thread but am a bit boggled:eek: Looking for a multifuel stove to fit below

Dimensions of ope are 440w x 440D x 445H

6 year old house with an 8" clay flue. It needs to heat at least a room 7.2m x 6m. There is great heat from an open fire here and was looking at Tripp 4 as easiest option and no re-lining of chimney needed but I'm not sure. Budget is small!

Thanks for any advice you can give

Hi:) For your room size I would look for a 6-7kw stove. I had a look at the TR4 and the opening height it needs 525mm:( I would raise the opening. Most of the inset stoves need around this height. There may be a less tall one somewhere. I definately think a 4kw stove is too small unless you have a really super insulated room.

If you could double your budget buy a woodwarm fireview 6.5

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/65kwinsetfireview.ashx

Here is one burning:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMmV4vszEs

If I was fitting an insert stove in my house it would be one of these:D.

Unfortunately you do get what you pay for:( But a cheaper stove may suit for now if thats all the budget will allow.

Stove Fan:)

jeje7355 · 08-12-2011 11:23am

Thanks Stove Fan.

We are now wondering would an ordinary stove be better here rather than an insert. i.e. would we get more heat from it. We would have to put a bend in the stove flue to connect to the chimney flue. How easy/difficult is it to clean the chimney with a 90 degree bend pipe? Are there any ones you think would suit our room?

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 1:49pm

jeje7355 wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan. We are now wondering would an ordinary stove be better here rather than an insert. i.e. would we get more heat from it. We would have to put a bend in the stove flue to connect to the chimney flue. How easy/difficult is it to clean the chimney with a 90 degree bend pipe? Are there any ones you think would suit our room?

An inset stove can be just as good as a freestanding stove so long as the installer has backfilled with vermiculite/sand cement mix. This stops any heat escaping up the chimney.

Woodwarm produces great quality stoves and you wouldn't have any problems with lack of heat.

90 degree bends should be avoided. Better to use 45 degree bends.

The main advantage with an insert is it minimises the install. Smoke test, Just slide it in, bolt down, backfill, air vent, co alarm, job done. The lintel would need to be raised in your case but an installer could do everything in a day:)

Other budget stoves are villager or hunter stoves. We have a villager. It does it's job great but next time it's a woodwarm:) The difference between our villager and the same output woodwarm is £300 on the woodwarm you get a better quality made/ materials. Very controllable so uses less fuel as the better stove doesn't leak in air when you close it down so burns slower.

The premium brands are clearview, woodwarm, morso, charnwood.

Stove Fan:)

torres3011 · 08-12-2011 3:56pm

Hi Stovefan,

I am thinking about a charnwood LA50IB for my place.

There are 8 rads in total.We have 2 newish double 1200 X 500mm rads, and the rest are older single 1000 x 500mm rads of which there are 5 plus the small 600 x 500 mm one in the bathroom.

I've read your opinions and you know your stuff so was wondering if you could do a bit of maths for me and work out if that one would suit our needs please?

The room that it is in is approx 14ft x 16ft. The house is older cavity block and the insulation is poor in general. Budget is about 1,500 Euro.

Herselfs auldfella is a plumber so he can do the install for us.

Thanks.

rayquinn1 · 08-12-2011 4:54pm

Hi Stovefan,

I recently installed a Clearview 750 boiler stove replacing an open fire. The flue is joined into the original clay chimney liner.
It is a double door stove and when you open the left door it is fine and no smoke comes out but when you open the right door as well a belch of smoke comes out. Not every time - depends on how the fire is burning when it is opened.
Would this have anything to do with the chimney not being lined or insulated?

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 6:23pm

torres3011 wrote: »

Hi Stovefan,

I am thinking about a charnwood LA50IB for my place.

There are 8 rads in total.We have 2 newish double 1200 X 500mm rads, and the rest are older single 1000 x 500mm rads of which there are 5 plus the small 600 x 500 mm one in the bathroom.

I've read your opinions and you know your stuff so was wondering if you could do a bit of maths for me and work out if that one would suit our needs please?

The room that it is in is approx 14ft x 16ft. The house is older cavity block and the insulation is poor in general. Budget is about 1,500 Euro.

Herselfs auldfella is a plumber so he can do the install for us.

Thanks.

Hi:) I have worked out you need a 11.8kw back boiler stove and around 3.8kw to the room.
If one of the 8 rads is one of the ones in the living room then the stove will be fine to heat the house although at it's max rated boiler output:D. The room output is 2.2 kilowat so if no rad in living room a small 1kw would be wise to plumb in.
With the odd thermostatic radiator valves fitted it will be fine:) It's better to burn a stove hard than to slumber. Less flue deposits and more efficient.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 6:36pm

rayquinn1 wrote: »

Hi Stovefan,

I recently installed a Clearview 750 boiler stove replacing an open fire. The flue is joined into the original clay chimney liner.
It is a double door stove and when you open the left door it is fine and no smoke comes out but when you open the right door as well a belch of smoke comes out. Not every time - depends on how the fire is burning when it is opened.
Would this have anything to do with the chimney not being lined or insulated?

Hi:) Yes, it could be to do with the chimney but to me at a guess there may be a lack of ventilation.

Have you an air vent installed in the same room with a free area of 5,550mm sq? Or 8.52501 in² You should have. The vent should have the free are written on either in sq mm or sq inches.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-ventilation.html

See this section also for smoking stove issues.

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/smoking-fireplace-stove.html

Please also install a carbon monoxide detector in the same room as the stove.

Stove Fan:)

daiboc · 08-12-2011 8:55pm

Hi stove fan thanks for all your info.:D the size of a stove you reckon i would need, id imagine would burn an awful lot of fuel.
Daiboc

Stove Fan · 08-12-2011 10:25pm

daiboc wrote: »

Hi stove fan thanks for all your info.:D the size of a stove you reckon i would need, id imagine would burn an awful lot of fuel.
Daiboc

Yep:eek: If you used it like we use our stove and burned for 13hours a day in the coldest months for 7 months I think you could get through anywhere between 80-120, 40kg bags of coal but it really depends on how many hours a day the fire is burning and how warm you like it.

We use ours a lot even if it's slightly chilly or even if it's a miserable rainy day as it's nice to look at. We used 45 40kg bags over 7 months last winter. My folks have even had it lit when it's 18 degrees inside as they like a very warm house:eek: People have often said ours is the warmest house!!

Stove Fan:)

daiboc · 08-12-2011 10:38pm

thats a lot of coal i think ill be sticking to back boiler and oil:mad:

torres3011 · 09-12-2011 12:01pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) I have worked out you need a 11.8kw back boiler stove and around 3.8kw to the room.
If one of the 8 rads is one of the ones in the living room then the stove will be fine to heat the house although at it's max rated boiler output:D. The room output is 2.2 kilowat so if no rad in living room a small 1kw would be wise to plumb in.
With the odd thermostatic radiator valves fitted it will be fine:) It's better to burn a stove hard than to slumber. Less flue deposits and more efficient.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks again Stove Fan,

Sounds like ive just enough ooommppphh in that case

.

Just so im clear though, you reckon I should get rid of the rad in the room where the fire is? The rad that's there at the minute is an old single 1100 x 500 rad and it's one of the 8 counted.

What do you mean when you say "if no rad in living room a small 1kw would be wise to plumb in." ?

Is 2.2 enough for the sitting room do you think?

Also do you reckon im buying the right one for my budget or is there another inset could do the same job?

Another thing is that my telly is over the fireplace at the moment, I am putting back up the surround and fireplace when the stoves fitted. Do you think id get away with putting the telly back up or will i have to move it somewhere else? Would much of the heat travel
directly up if you know what i mean.

Sorry for all the questions boss man, it's just great to get unbiased advice for a change.:D

Stove Fan · 09-12-2011 4:03pm

torres3011 wrote: »

Thanks again Stove Fan,

Sounds like ive just enough ooommppphh in that case .

Just so im clear though, you reckon I should get rid of the rad in the room where the fire is? The rad that's there at the minute is an old single 1100 x 500 rad and it's one of the 8 counted.

What do you mean when you say "if no rad in living room a small 1kw would be wise to plumb in." ?

Is 2.2 enough for the sitting room do you think?

Also do you reckon im buying the right one for my budget or is there another inset could do the same job?

Another thing is that my telly is over the fireplace at the moment, I am putting back up the surround and fireplace when the stoves fitted. Do you think id get away with putting the telly back up or will i have to move it somewhere else? Would much of the heat travel
directly up if you know what i mean.

Sorry for all the questions boss man, it's just great to get unbiased advice for a change.:D

Hi:) there are not many inset boiler stoves with a decent sized back boiler and charnwood is a good make with a good output boiler. There is this but there isn't any saving as the two stoves are around £1200 and 1300 in the UK.
http://esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/
http://www.qualitystoves.co.uk/esse-greenswitch-multifuel-boiler-inset-stove-p-482.html

The charnwood I would say is the more tried and tested model. The esse GS though may suit you better as it has a bit extra capacity to run 1-2 extra rads, Usefull if you want to extend. The gs is more modern looking.

No keep the rad. As the stove only produces 2.2kw of heat to the room and you need 3.6kw to adequately heat the room then you will need a rad in there to boost the heat to the required temperature.

I was saying to fit a 1kw rad in there as I didn't know if there was one in the room already. I would fit a thermostatic rad valve on this rad in the living room.

There will be 2.2kw of heat rising up from the inset stove, it may not affect it but it may do. You can only try it really, but most would say to move it to a new location. The chimneybreast above the fireplace may get warm.

Stove Fan:)

torres3011 · 09-12-2011 4:44pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi:) there are not many inset boiler stoves with a decent sized back boiler and charnwood is a good make with a good output boiler. There is this but there isn't any saving as the two stoves are around £1200 and 1300 in the UK.
http://esse.com/multifuel-stoves/350gs/
http://www.qualitystoves.co.uk/esse-greenswitch-multifuel-boiler-inset-stove-p-482.html

The charnwood I would say is the more tried and tested model. The esse GS though may suit you better as it has a bit extra capacity to run 1-2 extra rads, Usefull if you want to extend. The gs is more modern looking.

No keep the rad. As the stove only produces 2.2kw of heat to the room and you need 3.6kw to adequately heat the room then you will need a rad in there to boost the heat to the required temperature.

I was saying to fit a 1kw rad in there as I didn't know if there was one in the room already. I would fit a thermostatic rad valve on this rad in the living room.

There will be 2.2kw of heat rising up from the inset stove, it may not affect it but it may do. You can only try it really, but most would say to move it to a new location. The chimneybreast above the fireplace may get warm.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks a million Stove Fan,

Some food for thought there for me. I like the look of the Esse 350GS and the output to the room is a bit better as well.

Am going to send a few mails off to get the best price i can on both and then take the plunge.

Thanks very much for you help and info, much appreciated.

Will let everybody here know how i get on once ive had one fitted.

Reyman · 10-12-2011 6:15pm

torres3011 wrote: »

Thanks a million Stove Fan,

Some food for thought there for me. I like the look of the Esse 350GS and the output to the room is a bit better as well.

Am going to send a few mails off to get the best price i can on both and then take the plunge.

Thanks very much for you help and info, much appreciated.

Will let everybody here know how i get on once ive had one fitted.

Hi Torres,
If you check back a couple of weeks you'll see that JMSE has installed the large Esse stove (350GS) recently - it might be a good idea to see how he's getting on with it, before you make a decision

JMSE · 10-12-2011 7:43pm

Esse 350GS up and running in '83 3 bed semi with v good downstairs insulation and very poor upstairs insulation, and the result..............amazing.

edit...
<snip> Cant get over how good it is, am burning timber only, oh lots of nails too but they dont burn well. Its highly adjustable with the thermostatic 1-10 setting, and then the circular damper to override the thermoswitch is very effective. With the fire up and running you can practically control it like a gas fire, but maybe thats the way with all stoves. We never used the upstairs rads coz I'm a scab but we have the whole lot on now and the house is really warm. Ten out of ten, and as Ross O'C might say, 'fair focks in fairness'.

goat2 · 10-12-2011 10:48pm

i bought one of those eco fans, that you sit on top of the stove, it automatically works when the stove top get hot, it pushes the warm air around the room rather than it going to the ceiling, i already find the sitting room roasting, family saying it is too warm now

Qualitymark · 11-12-2011 8:12am

goat2 wrote: »

i bought one of those eco fans, that you sit on top of the stove, it automatically works when the stove top get hot, it pushes the warm air around the room rather than it going to the ceiling, i already find the sitting room roasting, family saying it is too warm now

Also very pretty

madrab · 11-12-2011 5:24pm

I just recently had a wanders Square 60 stove installed into my front room& I'm not sure if it hasn't been installed correctly or if there is something wrong with it as there doesn't seem to be much heat that coming out of the fire.
The fire burns good, & the vent seem to work. The installers came out on friday and changed the baffle around (from the manual it looked to be in the wrong way, but the guy said that it is adjustable depending on the strength of the flu/size of the chimney) & this is putting a bit more heat out into the room but I'm still sitting on the couch (10ft from the fireplace) with the fire lit & I'm barely feeling the heat

the wall above the fire is very hot, it seems to be absorbing a lot of the het, is that normal?

Is it just me or does it sound like something is wrong with the fire?

doherta5 · 11-12-2011 7:10pm

Without wishing to load this thread with questions, I was wondering if I might be able to ask if anyone has completely replaced their oil burners with a multi-fuel stove? Given the cost of oil these days and my impending emigration, I was hoping to get a bit of energy security of supply into the homeplace before I go and was thinking that a stove would be the best way to go about it.

A further point to mention is that the house is c35 years old 4-bed bungalow and plumbed with gunbarrel, which has silted up one circuit and caused us to put in a qualpex workaround. The other two circuits (living area and bedrooms) are beginning to do the same but I'm a bit wary of flushing them out with cleaning agent.

Could anyone give me some advice? Many thanks...

Qualitymark · 11-12-2011 7:13pm

Sounds a bit dicey, madrab, but I defer to Stove_Fan's expertise. But I've just gone and put my hand on the chimneypiece above my stove. Three inches above the place where the flue disappears into the chimney, the wall is quite cool, and the stove (a Clearview Pioneer 400P) is throwing out great heat.

This page http://www.wanders.com/en/ has a manual (there's a button each for the wood and gas stoves) at the bottom, which may help to clear up your questions about the baffle; I'd also be inclined to phone the company, or email them (info@wanders.nl) for advice.

Stove Fan · 11-12-2011 8:14pm

madrab wrote: »

I just recently had a wanders Square 60 stove installed into my front room& I'm not sure if it hasn't been installed correctly or if there is something wrong with it as there doesn't seem to be much heat that coming out of the fire.
The fire burns good, & the vent seem to work. The installers came out on friday and changed the baffle around (from the manual it looked to be in the wrong way, but the guy said that it is adjustable depending on the strength of the flu/size of the chimney) & this is putting a bit more heat out into the room but I'm still sitting on the couch (10ft from the fireplace) with the fire lit & I'm barely feeling the heat

the wall above the fire is very hot, it seems to be absorbing a lot of the het, is that normal?

Is it just me or does it sound like something is wrong with the fire?

Hi:) I have had a look at their installation instructions and some of their suggested methods wouldn't be allowed here, shared flues for instance. I though the instructions were quite poor.

It seems like the unit is more suited to be sited and then a false chimney breast built around it with ventilation top and bottom to let the heat escape, rather than inset into a masonry opening.

I would give the company an email/ call as said and ask them to send you or say how it should be installed into a masonry chimney.

The usual way is to fit the unit to the wall with a rope seal and bolts and backfill the voids at the rear/sides by pouring vermiculite/sand mixture through the stoves flue exit so that it fills all voids and also covers the top of the inset. This stops all the heat from escaping up the chimney.

I would definately contact the manufacturer and see what they say.

Stove Fan:)

Discodog · 11-12-2011 8:29pm

I am looking into small freestanding multifuel stoves. The room is only 12ft x 10ft so space is at a premium. I would be burning coal & I am looking for a stove that will easily do an overnight low burn.

Needless to say I want to do this as cheaply as possible - I may be moving at any time. Any suggestions.

Stove Fan · 11-12-2011 8:31pm

doherta5 wrote: »

Without wishing to load this thread with questions, I was wondering if I might be able to ask if anyone has completely replaced their oil burners with a multi-fuel stove? Given the cost of oil these days and my impending emigration, I was hoping to get a bit of energy security of supply into the homeplace before I go and was thinking that a stove would be the best way to go about it.

A further point to mention is that the house is c35 years old 4-bed bungalow and plumbed with gunbarrel, which has silted up one circuit and caused us to put in a qualpex workaround. The other two circuits (living area and bedrooms) are beginning to do the same but I'm a bit wary of flushing them out with cleaning agent.

Could anyone give me some advice? Many thanks...

Hi:) We have in the past ripped out a 12 month old oil boiler and replaced it with a woodburning stove with back boiler. It was cheaper to run as where we lived in France wood was very cheap to buy. About a 50% saving.

Here I think coal is definately cheaper than the wood but dirty and have to empty the ashes every day rather than once a week.

We only have a villager boiler stove here in Ireland heating the rads and hot water. It's a good stove and it is cheaper to run than oil for us as we use it a lot. We spend 650 euros on coal last winter and used it over 7 months. 105sqm detatched older style bungalow.
I would never go back to oil but for the more elderly generation the convenience of a flick of a switch I would consider linking the old oil boiler and new boiler stove together. The best of both then:)

I would try powerflushing and chemical cleaning as if it works great but at the worst case your going to have to do something anyway if it's starting to not heat up efficiently. You could have the stove installed at the same time.

I would be tempted if flushing/cleaning doesn't work is to re pipe anyway surface mounted with pipework dropped down from the loft. This is how my house is plumbed.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 11-12-2011 9:09pm

Discodog wrote: »

I am looking into small freestanding multifuel stoves. The room is only 12ft x 10ft so space is at a premium. I would be burning coal & I am looking for a stove that will easily do an overnight low burn.

Needless to say I want to do this as cheaply as possible - I may be moving at any time. Any suggestions.

Hi:) You are really looking for a very small 3kw stove. I would consider these if not over budget.

Hunter Hawk3
Aarrow acorn 4
Villager puffin.

There are many stoves on donedeal for a few hundred euros that would be cheaper and may do a good job in the mean time until you move. They are imported from China and the quality may be very random. If you go this route please view the stove.

Or buy a dearer stove and take it with you:) If this is the case buy Morso, Charnwood or Dunsley.

Stove Fan:)

Discodog · 11-12-2011 9:12pm

I have seen some small Stanley's in the DIY sheds for around €400. My concern is to get a proper multifuel with a decent coal grate. I had a big stove with back boiler years ago & I managed to bend the grate bars :eek:

goat2 · 11-12-2011 10:09pm

i am wondering if my oil boiler is losing its effeciency, because if i leave on all radiators and someone goes for a bath the water for bath goes cold very fast, but today i turned off the upstairs zone and one of went for a bath, they had plenty hot water and were able to enjoy it, my oil boiler is eighteen yrs old, it has always been serviced, but i am wondering if i am guessing right

mk2 · 11-12-2011 11:18pm

Was thinking of goin for an insert stove with a back boiler to heat 12 radiators,as follows.
4x1160mm
2x950mm Double
2x950mm Single
2x900mm
1x580mm
1x460mm,
Our sitting room is 15'x13'.
The house is insulated and has double glazing.
Any advice on what make would be the best.
The budget would flexable depending on the quality and efficiency but all suggestions will looked into!

Qualitymark · 11-12-2011 11:40pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

where we lived in France wood was very cheap to buy. About a 50% saving.

Yikes!

Stove Fan · 12-12-2011 12:02am

mk2 wrote: »

Was thinking of goin for an insert stove with a back boiler to heat 12 radiators,as follows.
4x116mm
2x95mm Double
2x95mm Single
2x90mm
1x58mm
1x46mm,
Our sitting room is 15'x13'.
The house is insulated and has double glazing.
Any advice on what make would be the best.
The budget would flexable depending on the quality and efficiency but all suggestions will looked into!

Hi:) I take it these measurements are centimetres or in mm but with a 0 on the end?

Are the others singles or doubles:)

Stove Fan:)

mk2 · 12-12-2011 12:08am

Yes stove fan that is right a 0 would help,there is only two doubles the rest are all single.

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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