The only way to do it is to set up targets at set distances, and fire 3 shots (without adjusting so let the bullets fall low) at each distance to determine the drop of the bullet. Adjust your scope as necessary and fire another couple of shots to confirm it is on target at that distance.

Make a note of the adjustments for each distance. On a piece of paper write down the distance, and adjustment needed FROM YOUR ZERO SETTING and carry it with you. After a while you will get used to the distances, and be able to adjust without much if any need for checking your chart.

A small tip. DO NOT try it at rtoo many intervals. IOW do not try it at 75, 100, 125, 150, 175, 200, ................ etc. Use large-ish intervals, and a small bit of hold over/under for anything in between. So if your zero is 100 yards (which i recommend rather than 75) do drop charts for 150, 200, 250, 300, 350, 400. You could even use 100 yard intervals, but it's your call.

Another thing. Be careful of the longer distances. You might find that there is no difference in your point of impact from 100 to 150 or even 200 yards. However when you go out to 300, 400, 500 yards the drop becomes more severe. So it might be prudent to get drops from 100 to 200, then 100 to 300. After 300 yards start using 25 or 50 yard intervals as the drops become so large that halving the drop may still result in a miss.

IOW if you have a 12 inch drop from your 300 yard zero to 400 yards do not assume aiming 6 inches higher will get you 350 yards exactly. The longer a bullet travels the more in drops. So from 300 to 350 yards it might drop 4 inches. But from 350 yards to 400 yards it might drop 8 more inches. Get my drift?

Sounds like a perfect setup. Lash p a picture.

The Bushnell Elite is a great scope, the T4 is a good mod that will last forever if minded, and the Remmy is a "bullet proof" rifle. Plenty of options for customising as you go without breaking the bank. Trigger, stocks, etc.


Best of luck with her, and try out the above to see what she can do. Make sure to write everything down. No one remembers it all, and to do all the work, and not have it recorded is a waste of ammo, and heart breaking into the bargain.


One final piece of advice. Zero the turrets at your chosen zero. So if you have the rifle set at 75 yards (which i personally think you should change to 100 but that;s just me) then remove the turret, turn it to 0, and tighten. Then turn it all the way down counting the clicks. This way if you ever get confused as to the setting on your rifle you meed only dial it all the way down, and turn up the recorded number of clicks, and the turret wil be back on 0 and back to your preset zero.

Absolutely try different rounds. Find out the twist rate of your rifle, then buy accordingly.

If you cannot find it online then try this.

Get your cleaning rod, attach the jag with patch or mop. Mark 14, 1 inch increments on it with a marker. Now draw a single line up through all 14 markers.

Push the rod into the rifle until the jag/mop is at least 4-5 inches into the barrel. Have the first increment inline with the back of the action.

Now slowly push the rod into the rifle. As the rod is traveling along the barrel the body of the rod turns, and you can see the line & markers starting to turn. When the line does one full revolution, and comes back to it's upright position - stop.

Place your finger/thumb on this marker, and while holding it withdraw the rod. Count the number of 1 inch markers traveled for the one revolution. That is your twist rate.

I would do it 3-4 times, add all 3-4 results, and divide by 3-4. This is your exact twist rate.

Barrel break in is a touchy subject. Some do it, others do not.

I have tried this on all my barrels to some extent. IOW some barrels have been broken in over a long period, and very methodically. Others were just fired, and cleaned with no serious regard to process, and amounts.

I found very little, if any, measurable difference between the performance. Some manufacturers don't even recommend breaking in the barrel.


The idea of barrel break in is to fire bullets down the barrel to remove any burrs. The cleaning is then to remove any copper/carbon build up so the next bullet has a clean barrel to go down. Most barrels, whether factory or custom, have between 2,500 - 5,000 round life. Some more, some less.

The break in process does no harm, and also does not require more than 30-40 (50 max) shots if you want to do it. Some have their own way, but i usually do the following;

• 1 shot and clean. Repeat for 5-10 rounds
• 2 shots and clean. Repeat 5 times (5x2)
• 3 shots and clean. Repeat 5 times (5x3)
• 5 shots and clean. Repeat 3 times (3x5)

You need not use as many rounds as above if you do not want to. However cleaning out the barrel is the important part so for that i use one of four chemicals. M-Pro7 bore gel, KG12, Butch's bore shine or Forrest Foam. I use one depending on the amount i've fired, ie, heavy fouling, medium or light fouling will dictate which one i use. I also pre-clean the barrel with KG1 carbon remover. This allows the copper cleaner to get straight to the copper, and not be wasted on carbon fouling.

For cleaning my routine would consist of the following:

• M-Pro7 for regular barrel cleaning. (Butch's Bore shine now and then for heavy cleaning.)
• Run a soaked patch through the barrel.
• Leave to sit for 4 minutes.
• Run another wet patch with M-Pro7 through the barrel to moisten the fouling.
• Run a nylon brush up and downt he barrel about a dozen times.
• Run another M-Pro7 patch down the barrel to remove fouling while treating it again.
• Leave to sit for a mnute or two.
• At this stage have about 25 or so oiled patches at the ready.
• Start running them down the barrel one after the other until they run clean.
• If they come clean before the 25 great. If not use more.
• When the run clean and wet, then start using the dry patches.
• Run as many as is needed until there is no more oil on the patches coming out.
• Then use the mop and run up and down the barrel again about a dozen times.
• On the last run leave the mop half protruded from the muzzle. Wipe around the muzzle and clean any fouling on the crown. The mop will prevent anything running back down into the barrel.
• Remove the bore guide and use a tooth brush, patches and bore brush to clean out the chamber, breach, etc.
• Wipe down the rod, brushes, jag, and bore guide.
• If the rifle is beng stored away for a few weeks i roll up a soft cloth and place it into the chamber up against the breach and store barrel up.
• On the off chance that i have somehow missed some residual il this will collect it.

Most will have there own method. Its as personal as ammo choice, rifle choice, etc.