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Best way to insulate old stone house

  • 28-12-2014 06:18PM
    #1
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭


    What's the best way to insulate an old stone house. The walls are two foot thick and have been recently repointed in lime. any suggestions as the best method to insulate the house


Comments

  • #2
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,952 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    john price 31 wrote: »
    What's the best way to insulate an old stone house. The walls are two foot thick and have been recently repointed in lime. any suggestions as the best method to insulate the house

    French drain, external wall insulation (breathable insulation/render) up past the soffit to meet roof insulation. Move windows out so frame can be covered by the ewi.


  • #3
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    When you say repointed? Is there exposed rubble stone visible on the outside?


  • #4
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭john price 31


    Yes it's really nice stone around the whole house


  • #5
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    What is the floor to external level difference and when was the internal floor laid?


  • #6
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭john price 31


    House has been completely gutted and has no internal floors or foundations


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  • #7
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    John if you must dryline consider breathable solutions such as Hemp lime, calcium silicate or specialist wood fibre

    You must consider the insulation works in conjunction with ventilation, thermal bridges, air-tightness/drafts, water vapour/ due-point of insulation & structure, heating and how to suitably deliver that heat, rising damp, weather penetration, but to name a few.

    Edit: Research 'electroosmosis damp proofing' along with the above


  • #8
    braddun
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭braddun


    http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-and-durability/32126/how-best-insulate-framed-walls-inside-stone-w


  • #9
    Markcheese
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    My house is a bit of a hotchpotch, old stone terrace cottage in 2 original rooms with 2 foot thick wall dividing the rooms and a modern extension on the back - one half of the old cottage (kitchen and dining room) is dry lined - seems to work well - heats up quickly -doesn't appear to be mold or damp behind the insulation (hard to tell 100%) .
    Other half is uninsulated - and also works well -concrete renders inside and out - we have a small stove in the sitting room which can heat the house (if we let doors open ) that makes a marked difference - a slow steady heat source seems to suit thick stone -
    I'm surprised at how well it retains the heat -it's no passive house but doesn't take much to keep it warm - so I guess I'm saying if you can avoid it don't dry line - :-)

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • #10
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    john price 31 wrote: »
    What's the best way to insulate an old stone house. The walls are two foot thick and have been recently repointed in lime. any suggestions as the best method to insulate the house
    John what size is the house?
    braddun wrote: »
    http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-and-durability/32126/how-best-insulate-framed-walls-inside-stone-w
    You do know that's a North American website? We typically have higher RH/milder climate with more issues of rising damp etc than the yanks do.
    Markcheese wrote: »
    terrace ... doesn't appear to be mold or damp behind the insulation (hard to tell 100... a small stove in the sitting room which can heat the house... a slow steady heat source seems to suit thick stone... if you can avoid it don't dry line - :-)
    you live in a terrace. So you have say 12 linear meters of external wall as apposed to john who will probably have more than double that. What thickness of insulation is installed? And may I ask what the floor area is of the whole house? When you say 'slow steady heat source' do you mean the stove? And is it on all day?


  • #11
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭john price 31


    The house is 50 foot long and 18 foot wide. 3 rooms down and 3 rooms upstairs . There seems to be damp issues in one of the rooms.


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  • #12
    Markcheese
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    BryanF wrote: »
    John what size is the house?

    You do know that's a North American website? We typically have higher RH/milder climate with more issues of rising damp etc than the yanks do.
    you live in a terrace. So you have say 12 linear meters of external wall as apposed to john who will probably have more than double that. What thickness of insulation is installed? And may I ask what the floor area is of the whole house? When you say 'slow steady heat source' do you mean the stove? And is it on all day?

    Yup- a small stove ,(Stanley Oisin ), at the moment we have it lit all day - about 15 meters front and back of external walls- and two unheated neighbours -
    Insulation in the dry lined half is 50 mm kingspan/plaster board -

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • #13
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Markcheese wrote: »
    Yup- a small stove ,(Stanley Oisin ), at the moment we have it lit all day - about 15 meters front and back of external walls- -

    Nice one, as there is some one there during the day. Whats heating the water?


  • #14
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    john price 31 wrote: »
    The house is 50 foot long and 18 foot wide. 3 rooms down and 3 rooms upstairs . There seems to be damp issues in one of the rooms.
    You had better get things right for the rising walls before you pour the floor..


  • #15
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭john price 31


    BryanF wrote: »
    You had better get things right for the rising walls before you pour the floor..

    So I should French drain the outside parameter , electroosmosis the walls and put damp proof membrane on before I start the floors.


  • #16
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    john price 31 wrote: »
    So I should French drain the outside parameter , electroosmosis the walls and put damp proof membrane on before I start the floors.
    An on-site assessment would be needed to determine the best course of action. The items you list above would be typical solutions to rising damp and are best implemented before floor insulation/radon sump/foul pop-ups/ services/ screed are installed.


  • #17
    john price 31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13 ✭john price 31


    BryanF wrote: »
    An on-site assessment would be needed to determine the best course of action. The items you list above would be typical solutions to rising damp and are best implemented before floor insulation/radon sump/foul pop-ups/ services/ screed are installed.
    Ok and would you recommend underfloor heating ? I've heard a lot of conflicting reports about it and was leaning towards a boiler stove or oil boiler as a source of heating.


  • #18
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    john price 31 wrote: »
    Ok and would you recommend underfloor heating ? I've heard a lot of conflicting reports about it and was leaning towards a boiler stove or oil boiler as a source of heating.

    John, I would recommend ufh in a well insulated new build where heat pump is being used.


  • #19
    Seamus1234
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 ✭Seamus1234


    The dilemma of adding insulation to house that was not designed for insulation is a fine balance. Too much insulation (or the wrong type) and you will end up with mold or structural issues . A strategy for ventilation is also important in order to keep the oxygen levels high (keeping the co2 and VOC,s low) and removing moisture.

    If it was me I would talk to -snip- discuss/verify the details before I start. They will have done this before.

    When you know the safe level of insulation you can install you can then more than likely work out what the heating system is going to be.

    Regards,
    Seamus


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