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Removing small rust spots

  • 17-05-2015 10:21AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭


    Folks,

    I'm looking for some advice on removing a few spots of rust from my car.
    Some of the rust is visible, but it looks like some more under paint. Do I need to buy something like 'Hammerite Rust Remover Gel' (http://www.halfords.ie/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/hammerite-rust-remover-gel-100ml) and then some touch-up paint afterwards?
    To get all the rust, would I need to use sandpaper or something to get at rust under paint?
    Picture below. There are about 5 or 6 on car, no bigger than a one cent coin.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    *Kol* wrote: »

    That's what I'm afraid of, if I do it wrong!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85,679 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    GDY151


    Removing the treating it is easy enough, the big problem is the respray over the area, to do it properly depending on the colour of the car you will need to spray the entire panel so it blends in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    Removing the treating it is easy enough, the big problem is the respray over the area, to do it properly depending on the colour of the car you will need to spray the entire panel so it blends in.

    Removing and treating is what I was looking for advice on?
    I wasn't planning on re-spraying, just using touch-up paint as these are only small spots.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    vicadd wrote: »
    Removing and treating is what I was looking for advice on?
    I wasn't planning on re-spraying, just using touch-up paint as these are only small spots.
    They only look small from the surface, I bet you once you go at them that you will probably find the spot is actually a hole held together by paint.
    Once you see bubbles its usually 99% of the way through.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    The biggest issue you have is that the rust has started to bubble, leaving an uneven finish.
    You'll need something to treat the rust initially, so that it doesnt come through again. But treating it will still leave the uneven surface. You could paint it as it is, which will tidy it up slightly, and help protect from premature rusting again. However to get the surface flat and looking good, you will need to sand it back, treat it and repaint it, which is impossible to do well using a touch up paint given the size of the area that will be left needing painting. To do it right will involve repainting; so it will depend on the cars value, what finish you can live with and the cost of repair. If its just a daily driver / run around type car, id just treat the rust and paint them as is. It will take the away the unsightly look, but unfortunately it wont be anywhere near perfect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭edburg


    I dab bit of this it will treat and protect it for quite a while.


    But as said before paint be long term looking good job, but you could use a chip stick after above if you have a steady hand and can live with uneven look.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    Thanks to all for replies.
    The spots are on a number of panels so too expensive for me to get all panels resprayed to do this properly. The car is 5 years old and I only notice them when cleaning the car so it doesn't really bother me. But I want to give car proper clean and polish, so wanted to sort these out first. And, if I don't treat now, they will only get worse.
    So I'd like to treat with something that will remove the rust and hopefully if it's not spread far under the paint or a hole, just touch up. I've a pretty steady hand and happy to take my time with this. Just not sure if the product I linked to is the right thing to use. I can live with an uneven finish if I can keep the size small.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    edburg wrote: »
    I dab bit of this it will treat and protect it for quite a while.

    .

    Edburg, are you referring to the Hamerite stuff in my link?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭edburg


    vicadd wrote: »
    Edburg, are you referring to the Hamerite stuff in my link?


    No I am a plonker and forgot to add link :mad:

    http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Car is only 5 years old. Would there be a chance its cover under a corrosion warranty. Even try for goodwill if it's 5 years and just over that time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    Thanks edburg, will take a look at that product.

    The Warranty is a possibility Curran - hadn't thought of that. It's a second hand car to me, but warranty says 3 years paintwork and surface rust but 12 years corrosion perforation (holes from inside to outside). I think it's more likely the former, so only 3 years, but will see if I can get to a garage and check it out..certainly no harm, in asking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I'd have it checked out.
    I think BMW had 5 years on their E46 model, but later up'd that to 7 years for any non exposed paintwork, for example in the door jambs, etc; so it might be worth asking.
    Id contact a dealership, playing a bit dumb and ask about it! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,505 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Dealt with alot of rust in the last year or so. The best treatment I found was to remove the rust mechanically first with sandpaper, a brass wire wheel or a steel wire wheel depending on how heavy it is. Use tape to protect the good paint. Then remove the tape and treat the rust chemically. Then isopon Zinc 182 primer spray to prevent the rust coming back. A small skim of P38 isopon(not the p40 for bridging gaps) if its deep. Sand it back. more primer. A few thin layers of top coat and the same with the clear coat. Polish the clear coat then. Takes a long time but comes up all right if you get the paint matched at a decent paint shop. There are much quicker ways to do it but this way will last and shouldn't cost more than 50 quid for all the stuff. If they are really small I wouldn't bother with the rust convertor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 341 ✭✭vicadd


    Thanks Interslice, that's some good detail on how to approach this. I think I'll try the Toyota dealership first as Curran suggested, just in case it's covered by warranty and then have a go this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,505 ✭✭✭Interslice


    vicadd wrote: »
    Thanks Interslice, that's some good detail on how to approach this. I think I'll try the Toyota dealership first as Curran suggested, just in case it's covered by warranty and then have a go this.

    Fingers crossed. Fairly poor from a 5 year old car.


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