MF 205 overhaul

emaherx · 04-01-2016 9:38pm #1

I'm nearly afraid to start this thread after seeing Greendragon3's restoration of a 35X but here we go.

Myself and my 2 brothers have started overhauling an MF205mkII which we purchased recently. I'm calling this an overhaul as opposed to a restoration as this tractor/loader will be going back to work. We don't plan on sticking to original for the sake of being original. We also don't plan on spending a fortune, so some parts along the way may be repaired, replaced with similar or even not so similar parts. The electrics for instance will be completely replaced and probably upgraded.

First order of business after purchasing the machine was to replace two of the hydraulic cylinders on the loader and have a tool carrier made up which allows the fitment of Trima Loader Implements which we already have.

After this we had a we play with it, we cleaned out a few sheds with it and soon found out where it leaked, what rattled, and just how rough it was.

emaherx · 04-01-2016 9:45pm

OK so the fun begins with removing the loader which is quite wrapped around the machine.

emaherx · 09-01-2016 8:32pm

There is a lot of damage done to where the loader is mounted onto the tractor both on the nose cone and rear axel.

emaherx · 09-01-2016 8:40pm

The loader has managed to move so far forward on the tractor that there is now a substantial gap between the nose cone and bonnet. There is currently no brakes what so ever on this tractor and I believe the issue has been caused by the previous owner repeatedly reversing into walls as there was a huge counter weight on the back of the tractor that was mounted directly onto the loader frame under the back axel.

emaherx · 06-02-2016 9:02pm

Axle off, oil seal was leaking so axle is full of gunk.

Industrial Models have separate brakes for service and hand breaks. Hand break is outboard drums similar to 35/135 and service break is inboard dry disks like 65/ early 165

Front axle is able to move forwards and backwards a considerable amount, just ordered up a parts manual to try and figure out what is missing.

Oil in backend is a nice milky colour

Lazybones · 08-02-2016 8:37pm

Keep up the good work! Looking forward to the updates.

emaherx · 10-02-2016 9:57am

Sorry about today's photo's must have gotten oil on the lens.

Air Filter.

Lift cover off plenty of water/sludge in the oil.

quadrant levers were seized down as they have probably never been used.

emaherx · 10-02-2016 6:25pm

Not the neatest weld in the world and can't say it will be as square as it once was but it's a big improvement on the previous owners repair. I will probably brace it further also, but will wait until it is back on tractor to make sure it doesn't interfere with the hydraulic pump or oil cooler.

Odelay · 10-02-2016 9:19pm

Air filter??? It must never have been blown out or changed since it rolled off the production line!

emaherx · 10-02-2016 9:25pm

Odelay wrote: »

Air filter??? It must never have been blown out or changed since it rolled off the production line!

I know, I couldn't believe it myself!

emaherx · 14-02-2016 7:08pm

New Outer Disks

New Actuators

New Inner Disks

Axles back on and new Brake Shoes for handbrake.

Lazybones · 14-02-2016 7:25pm

Looking forward to seeing the end result. It will be a very useful machine and looks like it will earn it's keep.

Keep up the good work looking forward to the next update!

Lazybones · 25-02-2016 8:16pm

Getting twitchy here waiting for my next update fix :-)

emaherx · 25-02-2016 9:39pm

Lazybones wrote: »

Getting twitchy here waiting for my next update fix :-)

Been busy with with the day job. Planing steering box rebuild for the weekend and possibly rope seal replacement if there is time.

emaherx · 28-02-2016 9:07am

Sorry some of the photos are not great from using phone with oily gloves.

emaherx · 28-02-2016 9:22am

Next job is to split the tractor to replace engine rope seal, which I was just about to do, but then I realized I have no idea how to go about it. I have split many clutch tractors but never one with a torque converter. So I have a question if anyone out there knows, basically I have removed the inspection plate and I can see there are some bolts which go straight to the fly wheel, do I remove these before splitting the tractor so as to leave the torque converter in the transmission case when the tractor is split? I imagine this is true as I cant see how you would leave the system leak free when rejoining the tractor if the torque comes out on the flywheel.

Nekarsulm · 28-02-2016 10:19am

Don't touch them till you split the tractor. The two halves roll away from each other. The torque converter stays bolted to the flywheel and on the gearbox half, you are left with a hollow shaft and the torque oil pump. Oil seals prevent oil loss between the pump and the torque converter.

Nekarsulm · 28-02-2016 10:24am

There is a shaft sticking out of the torque converter, this is the drive to the torque oil pump. It has two "nibs" on it. These engage with two "nibs" in the pump. The pump is bolted to the face of the gearbox where you would normally find a clutch release bearing. If these nibs are worn you need to change them and change the pump.Also when putting together again, it's vital you line these up correctly.

emaherx · 28-02-2016 6:28pm

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Don't touch them till you split the tractor. The two halves roll away from each other. The torque converter stays bolted to the flywheel and on the gearbox half, you are left with a hollow shaft and the torque oil pump. Oil seals prevent oil loss between the pump and the torque converter.

There is a shaft sticking out of the torque converter, this is the drive to the torque oil pump. It has two "nibs" on it. These engage with two "nibs" in the pump. The pump is bolted to the face of the gearbox where you would normally find a clutch release bearing. If these nibs are worn you need to change them and change the pump.Also when putting together again, it's vital you line these up correctly.

Thank you for that, Sounds like it will be fun to realign.

Nekarsulm · 28-02-2016 6:43pm

They are not a close fit. Just have the pump "nibs" at 12 o clock and six o clock, and the "nibs" on the T converter at three o clock and nine.

emaherx · 28-02-2016 8:07pm

Nekarsulm wrote: »

They are not a close fit. Just have the pump "nibs" at 12 o clock and six o clock, and the "nibs" on the T converter at three o clock and nine.

So easier than a clutch assuming I don't damage oil seals when pushing back together?

Nekarsulm · 28-02-2016 9:22pm

What the drive "nibs" should look like.

emaherx · 29-03-2016 2:53pm

Finally found some time to split the tractor. Nekarsulm was absolutely right, both the impeller collar and the oil pump have to be replaced. The engine rope seal has been replaced and we are just waiting on the torque converter parts to arrive to reassemble.

Nekarsulm · 29-03-2016 3:35pm

If you have the torque converter dismantled, two things to watch. First, check for loose "vanes" in the internal turbine. These can be mig welded if necessary. Secondly, and most important, don't get mixed up and put the turbine/stator in backways. It will fit backways and reassemble perfectly fine, but the tractor won't fit back together the last inch.
Better again, the pump shaft will now be stuck in the torque converter and you won't be able to get the two halves apart again.....
Don't ask me how I found that out...... :O

emaherx · 29-03-2016 3:56pm

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you have the torque converter dismantled, two things to watch. First, check for loose "vanes" in the internal turbine. These can be mig welded if necessary. Secondly, and most important, don't get mixed up and put the turbine/stator in backways. It will fit backways and reassemble perfectly fine, but the tractor won't fit back together the last inch.
Better again, the pump shaft will now be stuck in the torque converter and you won't be able to get the two halves apart again.....
Don't ask me how I found that out...... :O

Haven't actually dismantled the torque converter yet, was waiting until I had the part in hand. But will bare this in mind, cheers.

emaherx · 02-04-2016 7:53pm

Torque converter repaired and work begins on front axle.

Lazybones · 04-04-2016 7:37pm

Good man, keep up the good work!

Hats off to people like you and greendragon for the great restoration projects.

emaherx · 10-04-2016 4:07pm

Not much to report this week. Just managed to remove some stubborn seized/broken bolts from underneath the front axle carrier.

I welded a nut to the end of the broken studs, I applied more weld than required till the nut was glowing red to help loosen the stud.

Shiny new bolts.

emaherx · 24-04-2016 5:08pm

Reassembled enough of the tractor to start it and test the work done so far.
As far as I can see everything seems to be working.
Disk Breaks are working. (haven't yet reassembled hand break to test drums but expect they will be fine)
3 point linkage is now raising and lowering.
No sign of the engine oil Leak (need to bring it for a bit of a drive to confirm)
Power steering is nice and light with no play

Next it needs to be brought out and power hosed before we prepare for painting.

Lazybones · 24-04-2016 9:21pm

It will be a fine machine when finished - fair play to you!

Nekarsulm · 24-04-2016 10:27pm

Coming together well!
What condition are the splines on the hyd. pump, and more importantly, the internal splines on the driveshaft?
You used to be able to buy the splined end for the driveshaft separately, it's silver soldered on, so needs abit extra head to melt.
A good coating of copper grease, or better still "Never-seez" will stop the shaft rusting solid to the pump in years to come.

emaherx · 25-04-2016 6:10am

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Coming together well!
What condition are the splines on the hyd. pump, and more importantly, the internal splines on the driveshaft?
You used to be able to buy the splined end for the driveshaft separately, it's silver soldered on, so needs abit extra head to melt.
A good coating of copper grease, or better still "Never-seez" will stop the shaft rusting solid to the pump in years to come.

I presume you mean the hydraulic pump for the loader? There is a bit of ware on them. Certainly no fear of them rusting together at the moment

.

emaherx · 05-02-2017 11:16am

Been a while since anything productive was done on this project. But we are doing the final strip down are getting ready for paint.

r

stock> · 06-02-2017 2:25pm

BeeJaysus lad I thought you fallen of the planet, keep up the good work and do keep us informed........................

emaherx · 06-02-2017 8:20pm

I will try Stock>...... But the day job, other farm activities and family life make it hard to get these projects done as quick as i'd like. But I do need to get this machine back together and out of the way so I can get the 698T in for an engine overhaul.

emaherx · 18-03-2017 8:16pm

First coat of primer applied today.

Hagimalone · 18-03-2017 8:34pm

Great work, fair play

John J. Lyons · 19-03-2017 5:52pm

Hagimalone wrote: »

Great work, fair play

Nice work coming along nicely, i have a 35 digger that i will be scrapping if you are stuck for parts

emaherx · 23-03-2017 6:03pm

Lazybones · 23-03-2017 11:19pm

Great work emaherx! Keep it up!

MF 205 overhaul

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