Electric fence- help needed please!!

Wessel3 · 20-06-2017 10:26AM #1

hi all.
I have rented a 3 acre field for calves. I have intended to split this into 6 .5 acre paddocks for the small number of calves I have.
There are not fences on 3.25 side of the field ( only a bit up the length of one of the sides.
I planned to put double strand wire down each side of the field with cross fences running across the width of it . I have attached picture of this . I bought a small fence tester and this had read that poor line. and the calves were able to sniff and climb through and ended up in drains and all sorts. the fencer I have is a Woolsey one that runs of car battery, the blue light says good line, yet the fenced tester is reading poor. im wondering if the fence I too long given that its double strands right the way round, roughly 1100 m.

I had intended to have this In such a way that I could back fence , and fence ahead of them and use a spring gate to let them into next paddock. im open to any suggestions at all because im totally beat with this one. please and thank you

blue5000 · 20-06-2017 11:09AM

Is the wire touching weeds? Important to train calves too before you let them out to the field.

Wessel3 · 20-06-2017 11:11AM

hi blue, I cant see any short earths any where around, how do you best train the calves, I have them in a small pen at the minute

ganmo · 20-06-2017 11:13AM

Disconnect all the cross field wires and test the perimeter shock

I'd say you only need 3 cross field wires up at any time(2 for where they are and 1 for the next section)

_Brian · 20-06-2017 11:33AM

Disconnect the fencer from the fence completly.

Test the wire coming from the fencer and be sure first that the fencer itself is working.

Presuming it is, start adding on the fence in sections, testing each time.

Check insulators in posts and where the fence terminates to ensure it isn't shorting.

Also, what type of wire is being used. The white multi strand wire doesn't like being stretched, if The calves have gone through it a few times they could have stretched it and broken the silver strands which carry the power.

Lastly as with all fencers they are only as good as the earth. Make sure you are getting a good earth, battery fencers are notorious for having very short earth bars, make sure it's driven well down, preferably into damp ground.

Wessel3 · 20-06-2017 12:14PM

hi ganmo brian, thanks for input very much appreciated,
Ganmo- I have only the 2 cross wires up, the bottom line in picture 1 has to stay up to create boundary for access through field to another by owner. the long wire down the right side of pic 1 is where theres a drain. I hope to keep it up the whole time too , its about 400+m though.
Brian, I tested the fencer on the tester and said good, once put onto the wire it read poor, even though no earth problems that I could see from touching grass etc. maybe wire is too long as im using double strand set at 4 notch on poly post and second from top see pic .

another option may be to make smaller blocks , like in pic . but I was would like a spring gate type access to get in and meal them , and for access to next paddock, trying to make it one man band if possible,. any suggestions welcome, please and thanks

_Brian · 20-06-2017 01:17PM

You need to make breaks in the fence wire at convenient locations, joints you can open and close, this will allow you add section on and close them off.

Start with only a small amount of fence connected and see how that is, if it's good, add another section, you should find the problem.

If it were a long thing problem you would have a good reading close to the fencer getting gradually worse as you move farther away.

I was referring to the earth rod of the fencer unit itself, the connections to this are as important as any, make sure the earth bar is well down and damp around, dry ground soeasnt work well.

Within reason an we'll made fence could be any length and work, I'll not bore joy with the theory but there should be no actual power flow on a perfect fence, just the potential waiting for an animal to touch it.

Lastly we wouldn't dream of letting calves out until they are trained to tue fence wire, even then it can be touch and go for a few hours as they burn off steam.
We have them in a closed yard with a stretch of wire connected to mains fence, it sounds awful but I cut one foot pieces of wire and tie them onto the training fence at intervals, calves can't resist licking and sucking loose pieces of wire and really quickly learn that the fence is bad and to be avoided at all costs. When they get to the field the sight of the wire stops them dead and there may only be minimal power actually there.

theaceofspies · 20-06-2017 04:25PM

_Brian wrote: »

You need to make breaks in the fence wire at convenient locations, joints you can open and close, this will allow you add section on and close them off.

Start with only a small amount of fence connected and see how that is, if it's good, add another section, you should find the problem.

If it were a long thing problem you would have a good reading close to the fencer getting gradually worse as you move farther away.

I was referring to the earth rod of the fencer unit itself, the connections to this are as important as any, make sure the earth bar is well down and damp around, dry ground soeasnt work well.

Within reason an we'll made fence could be any length and work, I'll not bore joy with the theory but there should be no actual power flow on a perfect fence, just the potential waiting for an animal to touch it.

Lastly we wouldn't dream of letting calves out until they are trained to tue fence wire, even then it can be touch and go for a few hours as they burn off steam.
We have them in a closed yard with a stretch of wire connected to mains fence, it sounds awful but I cut one foot pieces of wire and tie them onto the training fence at intervals, calves can't resist licking and sucking loose pieces of wire and really quickly learn that the fence is bad and to be avoided at all costs. When they get to the field the sight of the wire stops them dead and there may only be minimal power actually there.

Totally agree. Training calves is essential - just set up a small run outside their pen for 3 or 4 days with the wide tape wire so that can see it. It gets them to respect electric fence and puts less risk on them breaking through a weak fence when you do let them out.

larthehar · 20-06-2017 05:58PM

The 1st thing i would ask is what is the rating of the fencer? 2200m of wire is a fair distance..

20-06-2017 06:15PM

If you run double strands of wire you could connect the bottom wire as an earth line instead of using earthing rods.

Stick with the tape imo for calves

Nekarsulm · 20-06-2017 07:47PM

What is the model of your Wolsey fencer? Some of them were very poor.
I think it was the Wolsey Viper that was a real bad design, so many problems it almost closed the company.

J.O. Farmer · 20-06-2017 08:05PM

49801 wrote: »

If you run double strands of wire you could connect the bottom wire as an earth line instead of using earthing rods.

Stick with the tape imo for calves

I think they do that in Australia. It works but the animal has to touch both wires at the same time.

_Brian · 20-06-2017 09:30PM

49801 wrote: »

If you run double strands of wire you could connect the bottom wire as an earth line instead of using earthing rods.

Stick with the tape imo for calves

I recommend using earth bars rather than an earth line as described above. Not needed in Ireland.

Wessel3 · 20-06-2017 10:19PM

Hi all sorry only back to replying. It's a Woolsey stockshop mosquito. Rates up to 15 mile or something. Yes I realised I need to train also. They recommend about 5k volts for calves. Mine was virtually nothing

Wessel3 · 20-06-2017 10:20PM

http://www.electricfencingkits.co.uk/electric-fence/Wolseley-BX140-Mosquito-Battery-Fencer-34001.html

_Brian · 21-06-2017 12:14PM

Oh, I'm not familiar with that fencer but at a stab I'd say it's going to be a struggle to get it working on much of a fence.

I presume the post doubles as an earth ??

This would need to be down maybe 18 inches into the ground, looking at that your best bet is dig a hole and get it down. Then see how your doing.

But my gut feeling here is it ain't ever going to be great.

FeelTheBern · 21-06-2017 12:46PM

Sorry for piggybacking on thread but I'm putting in new earth bars for mains fencer. Want to run one continuous length of 2.5 mm insulated earthwire from fencer onto all bars. Don't want to cut and rejoin at each bar so will need to strip at each bar. What's the best way of doing this easily so as not to damage the earth wire?? Thanks

_Brian · 21-06-2017 12:59PM

Carefully with a Stanley knife is only way I've seen it done.
I presume it's steel double insulated wire rather than copper wire ?

FeelTheBern · 21-06-2017 01:35PM

_Brian wrote: »

Carefully with a Stanley knife is only way I've seen it done.
I presume it's steel double insulated wire rather than copper wire ?

Thanks - just checking in case was an easier, safer way. It's the PEL underground cable so presume it's ok.

I've no damp or wet ground available for the earths so ground will be dry enough in summer (ie now). Have to put cable and earths fully underground as in open field.

Was wondering would it be good or bad idea to run a hydro water pipe in the trench and over earths with few holes drilled at each earth bar so could dampen areas in summer when dry?

Also would it make sense (as will all be underground) to link earth bars in a loop in case wire breaks anywhere, id still have connection?

_Brian · 21-06-2017 04:09PM

Both decent ideas.

21-06-2017 08:58PM

FeelTheBern wrote: »

Thanks - just checking in case was an easier, safer way. It's the PEL underground cable so presume it's ok.

I've no damp or wet ground available for the earths so ground will be dry enough in summer (ie now). Have to put cable and earths fully underground as in open field.

Was wondering would it be good or bad idea to run a hydro water pipe in the trench and over earths with few holes drilled at each earth bar so could dampen areas in summer when dry?

Also would it make sense (as will all be underground) to link earth bars in a loop in case wire breaks anywhere, id still have connection?

I used lighting rods rather than standard earth bars. Longer so harder to get into ground but reaches moist ground. Not worth worrying about moist ground in this country too much. That is a significant consideration in places like Australia.

Pel insulted cable is good. I stripped installation and wrapped around bar and clamped with u bolt that comes with the bar. Then wrapped connection made in that horrible sticky tape... densing tape I think it's called. Also I slipped old water pipe over the earth cable between rods to protect it. Bars about 5m apart

Could you not put earthing systems along a ditch/hedge rather than digging into middle of field. Sounds well expensive

FeelTheBern · 21-06-2017 10:00PM

Thinking of doing something along those lines alright with the pipe covering the cable but hadn't thought bout tape. Going to go at it tmrw morn so will have to leave that part out.

Sheds are in a paddock with old stone walls, no real ditches and lot of stone in the ground so have to her digger to dig out holes for bars anyway whether along ditch or in field. Hoping this will be a job that will do for next 25 years if not more!!

Farmer · 22-06-2017 12:27AM

Wessel3 wrote: »

http://www.electricfencingkits.co.uk/electric-fence/Wolseley-BX140-Mosquito-Battery-Fencer-34001.html

Great little yoke, should be no bother to it in polywire anyway

Are you getting a good spark if you hold the fence line connection about a millimetre off the earth bar, just to prove that the fence unit is able to put out enough current to keep the voltage up if there are contacts

If you're getting a spark then most of the rest has been covered already particularly in post #5 by Brian

Wessel3 · 22-06-2017 09:37AM

RE the earthing. I was told the ground may be today and to pour a bit of water over it to get a better earth??. also I was told to get a leisure battery for the fencer.
I have calves in a small pence in a concrete floored house, how best to train them for fencer. how would you earth it then? also I don't have gates in yard to let them out so to speak, work in progress

_Brian · 22-06-2017 11:13AM

Wessel3 wrote: »

RE the earthing. I was told the ground may be today and to pour a bit of water over it to get a better earth??. also I was told to get a leisure battery for the fencer.
I have calves in a small pence in a concrete floored house, how best to train them for fencer. how would you earth it then? also I don't have gates in yard to let them out so to speak, work in progress

Wetting the ground around earth bars helps, but only if they are down a decent depth, how deep is your earth bar going ?

Leisure battery would be ideal as "deep cycling" them doesnt shorten their life, regular lead acid batteries really don't like being drained-charged-drained-charged, leisure batteries on the other hand don't mind. If you were buying a battery I'd say consider it, we just use an old battery and its fine.

For training in the shed, maybe set up the fencer outside the shed on soil and run in a strand of live wire, should be fine.

jd06 · 22-06-2017 12:30PM

49801 wrote:

Pel insulted cable is good. I stripped installation and wrapped around bar and clamped with u bolt that comes with the bar. Then wrapped connection made in that horrible sticky tape... densing tape I think it's called. Also I slipped old water pipe over the earth cable between rods to protect it. Bars about 5m apart

49801 wrote:

I used lighting rods rather than standard earth bars. Longer so harder to get into ground but reaches moist ground. Not worth worrying about moist ground in this country too much. That is a significant consideration in places like Australia.

49801 wrote:

Could you not put earthing systems along a ditch/hedge rather than digging into middle of field. Sounds well expensive

My neighbour buried half a roll of sheep wire in a wet trench covered it in and connected it to the mains earth
He reckons it is a great job.
He always had trouble with earth, not anymore.
Its galvanized and connected in hundreds of places.

Wessel3 · 23-06-2017 10:10PM

Having went through all possible problems and testing all reels and wire. There is one reel with thinner wire that is dropping from 5kvolts to 2kvolts. Hope to change the wire and thus should remedy. Calves out in other paddock now and have a good few stings at 5k. Thanks all

Electric fence- help needed please!!

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