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Road bike or Gravel bike?

2

Comments

  • #52
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Thargor wrote: »
    What would you think of this Defy 2 with 32mm tubeless for tackling fire roads/laneways around the place? I dont give a crap about racing or group rides I just like exploring on my own fairly long range 50-100 km rides at weekends but I dont want to go full MTB either as I like a bit of speed on the proper roads (does 32mm make a big difference in this regard btw?)

    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ie/defy-advanced-2

    32mm makes a big difference but you also need to look at tread pattern. Slicks in mud ain't going nowhere no matter how wide. Not a problem in dry weather, but as they say on the telly, Winter is coming ;)


  • #53
    velo.2010
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭velo.2010


    mimiminx wrote: »
    I‘m looking to use it for long rides, but there’s a lot of bad roads around me and don’t want to wreck a road bike so maybe gravel would be better?

    A gravel bike is a slightly modified road bike and bad roads don't wreck road bikes. Your looking for comfort and a road bike with the abliity to take 30/32mm tyres is your first port of call. Relaxed geometry like the Defy will help if your position on the bike causes discomfort.

    For reference, I cycled the entire Royal Canal greenway on a full carbon road bike with 25mm tyres and with no issues — 28mm tyres may have made it slightly more comfortable


  • #54
    Thargor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,967 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    smacl wrote: »
    32mm makes a big difference but you also need to look at tread pattern. Slicks in mud ain't going nowhere no matter how wide. Not a problem in dry weather, but as they say on the telly, Winter is coming ;)
    I actually only found out in the last couple of days about them having less rolling resistance and being faster than 23X700, never would have thought that before I read it.

    If I did get knobbly tubeless 32s on a new bike what difference would that make to my road riding do you think? Because that would still be 90% of my time on the bike. Would it be very noticeable?


  • #55
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Thargor wrote: »
    I actually only found out in the last couple of days about them having less rolling resistance and being faster than 23X700, never would have thought that before I read it.

    If I did get knobbly tubeless 32s on a new bike what difference would that make to my road riding do you think? Because that would still be 90% of my time on the bike. Would it be very noticeable?

    I'm currently running 38c gravel tyres on my main bike having moved from 32c slicks. Feels a bit draggier descending but still hitting PBs regularly.


  • #56
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    Thargor wrote: »
    What would you think of this Defy 2 with 32mm tubeless for tackling fire roads/laneways around the place? I dont give a crap about racing or group rides I just like exploring on my own fairly long range 50-100 km rides at weekends but I dont want to go full MTB either as I like a bit of speed on the proper roads (does 32mm make a big difference in this regard btw?)

    https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ie/defy-advanced-2

    I have 37s on gravel bike and it's overkill 90 per cent of the time. The only times I feel it comes of use is on thick grassed canal tow paths, of which there are relatively few left in ireland, and deeply rutted stone bog / mountain roads, which unfortunately rarely lead anywhere. You just go up them and turn around and go back down! (The search continues though)

    To be honest most road bikes are acceptable on fire roads and little bits of off road trails so 32s will be absolutely perfect and probably a better balance than 37s.


  • #57
    Carawaystick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,779 ✭✭✭Carawaystick


    a148pro wrote: »
    Ah there's no way you're faster up hills on a 5kg heavier bike

    Easily done if the heavier bike has a granny ring vs walking up with a 39x25


  • #58
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    a148pro wrote: »
    I have 37s on gravel bike and it's overkill 90 per cent of the time. The only times I feel it comes of use is on thick grassed canal tow paths, of which there are relatively few left in ireland, and deeply rutted stone bog / mountain roads, which unfortunately rarely lead anywhere. You just go up them and turn around and go back down! (The search continues though)

    To be honest most road bikes are acceptable on fire roads and little bits of off road trails so 32s will be absolutely perfect and probably a better balance than 37s.

    A certain amount also comes down to your bike handling skills, where mine are admittedly pretty woeful and I feel quite a bit more comfortable on the wider tyres at lower pressure on gravelly or mucky off-road descents. One of my regular local spots is Massey's wood which includes plenty of muddy bits and tree roots where I find the slightly wider gravel tyres way better than slicks.

    I agree entirely that you have to go actively looking for decent gravel trails and certainly around the Dublin and Wicklow area expect to spend most of the time on paved surfaces. Some of the unpaved bits you do find can end up being tractor tracks and protruding nettles and briars forcing you onto the overgrown grass centre, e.g. this 3.5k segment from yesterday. Looks grand at the start but changes a bit along. My plan is a second set of wheels so I can choose between an road based or off-road based depending on my intended spin.

    The whole endless dead-ends on fire roads is a real PITA for sure and something Board Failte, Coilte and the local authorities should really look into. I'm currently spending an unhealthy amount of time staring at the Google satellite maps looking for ways to link things up.


  • #59
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,056 ✭✭✭cletus


    smacl wrote: »
    The whole endless dead-ends on fire roads is a real PITA for sure and something Board Failte, Coilte and the local authorities should really look into. I'm currently spending an unhealthy amount of time staring at the Google satellite maps looking for ways to link things up.

    I use a combination of OpenStreetMaps and Google Street view for this


  • #60
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    a148pro wrote: »
    Basically 2x has twice as many gears, but is slightly heavier as a result and there's an extra thing that can go wrong (the derailler which moves the chain between the big and small rings at the front of the bike).

    Is it really heavier though. Was looking at a 1xMTB recently and the larger cogs looked almost as big as a 34 chainring. I can only imagine therefore that the cassette is way heavier than an 11-25 and the extra weight is as much as the second chainring, derailleur and cables combined.

    Am I wrong on this, anyone have some hard facts ?


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  • #61
    CantGetNoSleep
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,273 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Is it really heavier though. Was looking at a 1xMTB recently and the larger cogs looked almost as big as a 34 chainring. I can only imagine therefore that the cassette is way heavier than an 11-25 and the extra weight is as much as the second chainring, derailleur and cables combined.

    Am I wrong on this, anyone have some hard facts ?

    I think it's a question of simplicity rather than weight saving. With 22 gears you have certain overlaps where different front and back combinations are almost the same, so a 1x can now give you the majority of the gears without any hassle of changing front rings


  • #62
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,056 ✭✭✭cletus


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    I think it's a question of simplicity rather than weight saving. With 22 gears you have certain overlaps where different front and back combinations are almost the same, so a 1x can now give you the majority of the gears without any hassle of changing front rings

    The counter argument to this seems to be that the bigger jumps in gears in a 1x set up makes it more difficult to select the "correct gear", i.e. neither grinding to hard, nor spinning too fast


  • #63
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    cletus wrote: »
    I use a combination of OpenStreetMaps and Google Street view for this

    OpenStreetMaps is definitely the better option for off-road cycle routes but Google street view lets you down once you leave road where satellite view gives you some chance at joining up the sketchy bits. Even then I always make the assumption that I might have to backtrack right up to the point of rejoining the public road as you never know when you're going to come across something marked as private property or otherwise impassable.


  • #64
    Tony04
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    From my own experience 2x for road 1 x for mtb. I find when climbing on the road bike the small difference in gear ratios always gives you the right gear. Also on long rides its nice to change between the first few cassete sprockets while still having your little ring for steep stuff

    On a mtb you dont need as precise ratios , you dont have to sacrifice your low gear if you get rid of your unneeded big gear(as descents are so steep, and your descending speed is as about how you handle the bike anyway).

    On a gravel bike( dont own one), I'd probably run a 1x as you dont really need your high gear ratio to grind over long flat sections, although I'm a saddist who loves to push myself over climbs


  • #65
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    CantGetNoSleep wrote: »
    I think it's a question of simplicity rather than weight saving. With 22 gears you have certain overlaps where different front and back combinations are almost the same, so a 1x can now give you the majority of the gears without any hassle of changing front rings

    Also no risk of cross-chaining or FD rub from a bad setup. Have yet to try a 1x setup but strongly tempted if the range was there. Currently have 50/11 as my high gear and 34/34 as my low gear which works well for me on most stuff. Very steep gravel climbs still have me getting off and pushing, though way less than a couple of years back. For GRX on the same 1:1 low ratio would require a 46t chain ring and 11/46 cassette.


  • #66
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Is it really heavier though.

    To be honest I don't know - I either presumed it or read it somewhere. Doubtless someone has done the analysis and posted it online?


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  • #67
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    smacl wrote: »
    One of my regular local spots is Massey's wood which includes plenty of muddy bits and tree roots where I find the slightly wider gravel tyres way better than slicks.

    This is a good point, there is a third surface that benefits from wider tyres - those beautiful forest trails that are made up of decomposed pine needles. Or anything organic or soil for that matter.

    Re the maps I find komoot, whichever source they use, is good, once you get the hang of the marked features - thin black line is a walking trail and is rarely cycleable, dotted double line is usually a fire road and is cycleable.

    But unfortunately you have to get your feet on the ground as some of the latter are private and gated and some of the former are cycleable. I also find I simply can't resist cycling up anything that looks nice even though I know hang well it goes nowhere. I get this kind of urge to explore every last bit, tick every option.

    Really we need a resource where people post up the results of their explorations into refined routes. Like alek did on the other thread. I wonder would there be a market for a sub forum with threads on various routes here. Or are there other platforms that allow you to browse? I'm not premium on strava and don't follow anyone so I don't know can you do that there.

    You can click on other people's highlights on komoot and then browse their cycles. Stumbled across a welcome development this way at the weekend. Coillte have opened an area above oughterard in galway called the wind way, and marked out a long route on what seems to be gravel roads, over 20k. This would seem to me to be reaction to the growing gravel market.

    There's also a lot more trails within the park, so you could do a longer loop, and looking at the map it looks like you could actually find a way through to the moycullen side, albeit without necessarily having permission to cycle it.

    The two roads either side are quiet enough and bit wild. Between those and the gravel route David Flanagan already has mapped out in Cycling in Ireland there's a decent spin on gravel and wild roads to be done. The derroura trail centre with 15k singletrack, difficulty unknown, isn't a million miles away either.

    Didn't get a chance to try it yet due to preponderance of offspring and apocalyptic midge conditions but it's on the list.


  • #68
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    Has anyone tried "proper" bog roads on a gravel bike? Like the kind fit only for tractors to get up, large loose rocks or large pointed rocks jutting out from surface?

    I can't decide whether to decide that if a rigid MTB can make it, a gravel bike can?


  • #69
    danoriordan1402
    Registered Users Posts: 701 ✭✭✭danoriordan1402


    Have to say, this thread has been a bit of a technical education for me so far, which for me the causal rider is great :)


  • #70
    Tony04
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Has anyone tried "proper" bog roads on a gravel bike? Like the kind fit only for tractors to get up, large loose rocks or large pointed rocks jutting out from surface?

    I can't decide whether to decide that if a rigid MTB can make it, a gravel bike can?

    If a rigid mtb can make it a gravel bike probably can, depending on the tyres your running.

    Surely a fat bike would be the best thing for the "bogs"???


  • #71
    nilhg
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,161 ✭✭✭nilhg


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Has anyone tried "proper" bog roads on a gravel bike? Like the kind fit only for tractors to get up, large loose rocks or large pointed rocks jutting out from surface?

    I can't decide whether to decide that if a rigid MTB can make it, a gravel bike can?

    I've been down plenty of bog roads locally here in West Kildare/East Offaly on a CX bike thankfully most of them are not as bad as you describe, mostly looking something like the photo linked below

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLXmBPuyVwzyiDaj7

    Most of them would be used by locals with cars and trailers drawing turf from private banks and even the BNM one would be used by workers in their cars often enough to have a reasonable surface.

    The roughest bit of surface I know is from the old Lullumore briquette factory beside the grand Canal at Killyna across to the IPCC at Lullymore itself and it's perfectly passable on a CX with 32mm knobblies.


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  • #72
    Thargor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,967 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Is tubeless the way to go for off road these days aswell?


  • #73
    Tony04
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Thargor wrote: »
    Is tubeless the way to go for off road these days aswell?

    Without a doubt, the ability to run lower pressures is much more important over rougher surfaces than on road


  • #74
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    nilhg wrote: »
    I've been down plenty of bog roads locally here in West Kildare/East Offaly on a CX bike thankfully most of them are not as bad as you describe, mostly looking something like the photo linked below

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SLXmBPuyVwzyiDaj7

    Most of them would be used by locals with cars and trailers drawing turf from private banks and even the BNM one would be used by workers in their cars often enough to have a reasonable surface.

    The roughest bit of surface I know is from the old Lullumore briquette factory beside the grand Canal at Killyna across to the IPCC at Lullymore itself and it's perfectly passable on a CX with 32mm knobblies.

    That road in the picture looks grand for most bikes. Where I got flummoxed recently was all the drains crossing the Wicklow way, e.g. here and then the rocky walking tracks here. I reckon a MTBer with reasonable skills on a hard tail would probably have no issues, or a skilled CXer with wider tyres, but for my abilities on 38c tyres it was get off and push.


  • #75
    nilhg
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,161 ✭✭✭nilhg


    smacl wrote: »
    That road in the picture looks grand for most bikes. Where I got flummoxed recently was all the drains crossing the Wicklow way, e.g. here and then the rocky walking tracks here. I reckon a MTBer with reasonable skills on a hard tail would probably have no issues, or a skilled CXer with wider tyres, but for my abilities on 38c tyres it was get off and push.

    On that road BNM have dug a trench across it in one spot, I'm not sure why because it's at least a mile in from the tarred road so hardly going to discourage dumping, but in proper CX style there's nothing to do but hoist the bike up on the shoulder and scramble down and back up again the other side.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jzHuD2N52y9jWn4m6


  • #76
    cletus
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,056 ✭✭✭cletus


    nilhg wrote: »
    On that road BNM have dug a trench across it in one spot, I'm not sure why because it's at least a mile in from the tarred road so hardly going to discourage dumping, but in proper CX style there's nothing to do but hoist the bike up on the shoulder and scramble down and back up again the other side.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jzHuD2N52y9jWn4m6

    They've similar done on a route I did recently.

    I think it's to do with draining the culverts on those roads


    521616.jpg

    *Edit* on close inspection, it would seem to be the same road :D:D:D


  • #77
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Has anyone tried "proper" bog roads on a gravel bike? Like the kind fit only for tractors to get up, large loose rocks or large pointed rocks jutting out from surface?
    /quote]

    I cycled across proper heather mountainside with in effect no path going across the top of cruagh toward a rocky path down to featherbeds. It's doable but no fun. My problem with cycling that is same as running it, the heather obscures the bog holes so you never really know if you're about to take a tumble. Realistically is fat bike territory.

    I also can't negotiate those drains along the paths and feel woefully inadequate as I'd say I would have lashed over them as a kid. But starting off road biking at aged 40 isn't conducive to that sort of stuff.


  • #78
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    Jonesy101 wrote: »
    Id go gravel/cyclo cross bike. I have a road racing one but you can do anything on a gravel bike. commute, change tyres to be a road (racing) bike if youre doing a triathlon or long road ride, and you can also do the gravel trails too and go on grass and mud. more comfortable and safer riding position. No contest!

    I am looking at something that would work the other way round as my main usage is road and racing and is likely to remain that way for a while. I have a good light 10 speed 2013 race bike but the technology is getting old and I'd like a disc brake bike that is good for racing (stiff, race geometry, light enough) but can also take a different set of wheels which will allow me ride some gravel trails. I'm not talking about lots of off road on really poor surfaces, just a bit now and again.

    An example bike which may meet these requirements is

    https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-x-lite-four-disc-ultegra-2661674?product_shape=Grey%2FLightning-Yellow

    The blurb says they take tyres up to 30mm which from reading above the likes of a148pro seemed to think would cover most gravel cases. Any views on that or anyone aware of a similar road race worthy bike which takes even wider tyres ?

    Thinking would be to run a 50/34 on the front (if configurator allows me) and have a race set of wheels with 11-25 and (eventually) a gravel set with a cassette range up to 32 or even higher.

    In the link they don't mention what type the disc brake is, what is the norm on road bikes, hydraulic or mechanical ?

    Anyone else here recently bought a road disc brake bike primarily for speed or racing but also with an eye to offroad ? If your main interest is road racing the problem as I see it starting with gravel is primarily weight and responsiveness


  • #79
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    harringtonp wrote: »
    I am looking at something that would work the other way round as my main usage is road and racing and is likely to remain that way for a while. I have a good light 10 speed 2013 race bike but the technology is getting old and I'd like a disc brake bike that is good for racing (stiff, race geometry, light enough) but can also take a different set of wheels which will allow me ride some gravel trails. I'm not talking about lots of off road on really poor surfaces, just a bit now and again.

    An example bike which may meet these requirements is

    https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-x-lite-four-disc-ultegra-2661674?product_shape=Grey%2FLightning-Yellow

    The blurb says they take tyres up to 30mm which from reading above the likes of a148pro seemed to think would cover most gravel cases. Any views on that or anyone aware of a similar road race worthy bike which takes even wider tyres ?

    Thinking would be to run a 50/34 on the front (if configurator allows me) and have a race set of wheels with 11-25 and (eventually) a gravel set with a cassette range up to 32 or even higher.

    In the link they don't mention what type the disc brake is, what is the norm on road bikes, hydraulic or mechanical ?

    Anyone else here recently bought a road disc brake bike primarily for speed or racing but also with an eye to offroad ? If your main interest is road racing the problem as I see it starting with gravel is primarily weight and responsiveness

    Having taken a road bike on some trails before getting the CX bike there are a couple of other things to consider. You definitely need the disc breaks as road calipers clog up with mud which tears the crap out of your rims if it is in anyway sandy. (Thinking of that sandy path on the featherbeds for example). Road bike has lower BB which makes for better handling on the road but leaves you more likely to knock the pedals off things on narrower off-road. Personally I'd find an upper width limit of 30mm a bit restrictive as narrower means higher pressure and bouncier coming down hill. I'm on 38s but will probably switch again to 42s next time the tyres need replacing. You can do many fire roads in dry conditions on 25s no bother but you always seem to hit more demanding conditions if you're out exploring.

    FWIW, my Rose CX is Ultegra with 50/34 front and 11/34 back. Next purchase is a second set of lighter road dedicated wheels with thinner tyres, and 11/32. Note if you're swapping more than a couple of teeth on the cassette you may also need a different chain and possibly a rear mech adjustment. Makes changing the wheels over more of a chore.


  • #80
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    smacl wrote: »
    Road bike has lower BB which makes for better handling on the road but leaves you more likely to knock the pedals off things on narrower off-road. Personally I'd find an upper width limit of 30mm a bit restrictive as narrower means higher pressure and bouncier coming down hill. I'm on 38s but will probably switch again to 42s next time the tyres need replacing. You can do many fire roads in dry conditions on 25s no bother but you always seem to hit more demanding conditions if you're out exploring.

    FWIW, my Rose CX is Ultegra with 50/34 front and 11/34 back. Next purchase is a second set of lighter road dedicated wheels with thinner tyres, and 11/32. Note if you're swapping more than a couple of teeth on the cassette you may also need a different chain and possibly a rear mech adjustment. Makes changing the wheels over more of a chore.

    Some good points there. Regarding pressure I currently run tubeless on my race bike and would be looking to also run tubeless on any new purchase. I'd imagine that with 30mm there would be no problem running at 40 PSI or perhaps even quite a bit lower.

    I'm weary though of manufacturers quoted max width tire. Any tire I've ever fitted is always wider when measured than the quoted width. I'd much prefer if Rose (and other manufacturers) actually quoted the chainstay and seatstay minimum widths, don't suppose anyone knows for the bike linked above ?

    Regarding chain lengths if you buy a configuration to start with that can take larger cogs would it not be the case that you would be fine running an 11/25 on a different wheel (as cassettes with 32 or 34 usually also go as low as 11 or 12) ?

    Any idea what the weight of your Rose CX bike would be with a good light set of wheels and tires ?


  • #81
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    I think you're in n + 1 territory to be honest, it'll be too much of a compromise to have a road racing bike and "gravel" bike in the same frame, it won't be good for either. You could of course cycle fire roads on 30 tires but I don't think you'll be comfortable riding a light expensive bike on that surface, most of us would worry about damaging it, stones chipping the frame etc

    Also don't take my word on tire size, i've relatively little experience and until 2 weeks ago was riding everything at full pressure. Suspect 30s a little light for anything more than very occasional trails, 32 probably the sweet spot.


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  • #82
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,184 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Some good points there. Regarding pressure I currently run tubeless on my race bike and would be looking to also run tubeless on any new purchase. I'd imagine that with 30mm there would be no problem running at 40 PSI or perhaps even quite a bit lower.
    You can run it much lower. I'd pump high for the ride over, and drop it as necessary over the spin.
    Any idea what the weight of your Rose CX bike would be with a good light set of wheels and tires ?
    I am interested too as I love the look of the Rose Backroad in Purple


  • #83
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Any idea what the weight of your Rose CX bike would be with a good light set of wheels and tires ?

    It's a Rose pro DX Cross-3000, which doesn't seem to be available any more. From memory it was listed at 8.9kg with the DT Swiss R24 Spline wheels which I'm still running. Not sure which tyres or saddle as I bought it with 32c Marathon supremes. I'll weigh it in its current configuration when I get a chance but I'd guess ~11-12kg given the wider tyres, brooks B17 saddle, platform MTB pedals, bottle cages, mini-pump, etc... More on the road with two full bottles obviously, though all the weight is still in the engine.


  • #84
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    CramCycle wrote: »
    You can run it much lower. I'd pump high for the ride over, and drop it as necessary over the spin.

    I am interested too as I love the look of the Rose Backroad in Purple

    Sweet looking bike, looks pretty much the same weight as mine in the default configuration. I'd be torn between the green and the purple.


  • #85
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    smacl wrote: »
    Sweet looking bike, looks pretty much the same weight as mine in the default configuration. I'd be torn between the green and the purple.

    I looked from the other way too. Meaning I'll keep my main race bike but it would be nice to be able to use a gravel bike as a backup when the occasion demands. See the Rose back road is reasonably light for what it is. I wonder how much lighter you would make it with race wheels and tyres and switching the saddle ...

    Anyone here have hard weight figures for their gravel or Cx bikes with fast light road wheels ?

    At the very least would expect a gravel bike to be fast enough to use regularly as a winter road bike on club spins. Took my old mtb out a few years back and was crucified


  • #86
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,184 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    smacl wrote: »
    Sweet looking bike, looks pretty much the same weight as mine in the default configuration. I'd be torn between the green and the purple.
    I've mailed them to see would they just sell the frameset, as I can't justify a new bike but I can afford a frameset, maybe.
    harringtonp wrote: »
    I looked from the other way too. Meaning I'll keep my main race bike but it would be nice to be able to use a gravel bike as a backup when the occasion demands. See the Rose back road is reasonably light for what it is. I wonder how much lighter you would make it with race wheels and tyres and switching the saddle ...

    Anyone here have hard weight figures for their gravel or Cx bikes with fast light road wheels ?

    At the very least would expect a gravel bike to be fast enough to use regularly as a winter road bike on club spins. Took my old mtb out a few years back and was crucified
    I use my CX bike on club spins without issue, its a bit more effort but only noticeable with the race group and even then, barely.


  • #87
    harringtonp
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭harringtonp


    CramCycle wrote: »
    I use my CX bike on club spins without issue, its a bit more effort but only noticeable with the race group and even then, barely.

    Do you change to light wheels with fast tyres ?


  • #88
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,184 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    harringtonp wrote: »
    Do you change to light wheels with fast tyres ?

    Schwalbe Marathons, neither light nor fast, wheels are the Fulcrums that came with the bike, not sure they are upto much.


  • #89
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    This is the kind of **** that warrants a bigger tyre, bog road out west. Could presumably be done on 32 ish but larger stuff eats it up. However this is rarely likely to be more than 5 per cent of a ride and may not feature at all depending on your preferences. In my case I am always cycling a decent distance to the trail head, usually dublin mountains, on roads so skews me towards a thinner tyre.

    If you avoid this and are just doing coillte roads or single track low 30s would be fine?


  • #90
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    a148pro wrote: »
    This is the kind of **** that warrants a bigger tyre, bog road out west. Could presumably be done on 32 ish but larger stuff eats it up. However this is rarely likely to be more than 5 per cent of a ride and may not feature at all depending on your preferences. In my case I am always cycling a decent distance to the trail head, usually dublin mountains, on roads so skews me towards a thinner tyre.

    If you avoid this and are just doing coillte roads or single track low 30s would be fine?

    This is exactly the kind of road I was talking about earlier. It'd be 30% of some of the routes I want to explore. I'm guessing tubeless is essential too.

    Thing about most of those really bad roads is they tend to be a dead end where I'm from, i.e. ending in a bog.


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  • #91
    nak
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,538 ✭✭✭nak


    a148pro wrote: »
    If you avoid this and are just doing coillte roads or single track low 30s would be fine?

    Wouldn't really use anything less than 38s for gravel. Low 30s for cyclocross but with a more aggressive tread.

    I used the same wheels on road/gravel/cyclocross bike with 38mm carbon rims so don't find the bike sluggish on road sections.


  • #92
    Oberkon
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭Oberkon


    I’m running two sets of wheels/ tyres for my gravel bike and they have been excellent

    Currently have a set of lightweight Prime alloy wheels with gravel king slick tyres 35mm

    Also have a set of heavier mavic wheels with Gravel king SK 38mm

    The first set feel great on tarmac and excellent on trails grass etc . No punctures and great in parks etc . Wouldn’t do a big gravel event on them though

    The second set with the the more knarly Gravel king Sk are great for more technical or muddy sections And proper gravel

    It’s great to have the options and the difference is very noticeable.


  • #93
    Orro
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭Orro


    I've just bought a gravel bike with 1x GRX (40t 11-42) and 38mm tyres. I'm moving from an endurance bike with 105 (34/50 11-28) on 25mm which was the max clearance.
    This thread has been great and answered quite a few questions I've had. gears.mtbcrosscountry.com - this is a good tool for anyone wondering about ratios on dif setups.

    1 question I had, any help or tips in how to find fire roads?


  • #94
    mad turnip
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭mad turnip


    They show up in open street maps as very small roads:
    https://www.openstreetmap.org/#map=17/53.16206/-6.22716&layers=C

    i.e all these white lines


  • #95
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    They're probably in more or less every forest in ireland, or at least there should be something cycleable in most forests. All coillte Christmas tree forests will have good gravel roads for logging access. They may not officially be open to cyclists but meh for the most part, provided we don't piss anyone off (walkers or people working the forest)

    Where are you based? Canals are great too


  • #96
    Tony04
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    Strava segments is great for finding gravel.


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  • #97
    Orro
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭Orro


    Blessington in West Wicklow, I've been stalking google maps around the lakes and that but there is obviously loads to explore in the Wicklow Mountains. Any recommendations?


  • #98
    Orro
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭Orro


    mad turnip wrote: »
    They show up in open street maps as very small roads:


    i.e all these white lines
    Tony04 wrote: »
    Strava segments is great for finding gravel.

    I'll give these a go, cheers


  • #99
    nak
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,538 ✭✭✭nak


    Orro wrote: »
    1 question I had, any help or tips in how to find fire roads?

    OS map and go exploring


  • #100
    a148pro
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,207 ✭✭✭a148pro


    There must be tons around there, but I don't know that area well. Someone will no doubt suggest something for you, or you could search for a thread called irish gravel compendium where some people posted some long routes, which may include stuff round there, and other threads on the weevil route

    If you're willing to cycle over the wicklow gap there are extensive fire roads above glendalough which I haven't done but are on the list at some point


  • #101
    Orro
    Registered Users Posts: 14 ✭Orro


    a148pro wrote: »
    There must be tons around there, but I don't know that area well. Someone will no doubt suggest something for you, or you could search for a thread called irish gravel compendium where some people posted some long routes, which may include stuff round there, and other threads on the weevil route

    If you're willing to cycle over the wicklow gap there are extensive fire roads above glendalough which I haven't done but are on the list at some point

    been over the gap many a time on the road bike so i'll give it a go cheers.

    defo time to explore!


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