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Knocking down stud wall

  • 03-01-2012 09:34PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,138 ✭✭✭


    Hi there... never posted in this subforum before.

    I want to knock down a thin stud wall between dining space and living room. No rads either side. Definitely a non-supporting wall. Almost certainly no pipes nearby and definitely no sockets. House about 15 years old.

    Wall is about 9 or 10 feet long and standard (minimum) height.

    Roughly how much to remove wall completely or as much as possible? Location is Sutton, house will be unoccupied at the time.


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 4,149 Mod ✭✭✭✭bruschi


    3DataModem wrote: »
    Hi there... never posted in this subforum before.

    I want to knock down a thin stud wall between dining space and living room. No rads either side. Definitely a non-supporting wall. Almost certainly no pipes nearby and definitely no sockets. House about 15 years old.

    Wall is about 9 or 10 feet long and standard (minimum) height.

    Roughly how much to remove wall completely or as much as possible? Location is Sutton, house will be unoccupied at the time.

    should take 2 lads less than a day really to get it down, out to a skip and the small bit of patching that is needed. Will you be repainting after? and what about the floor finish that is left, are you getting new carpet/floor finish?

    In its simplest, it should be down and out and a bit of patching to the 2 walls and ceiling for about €350/400 excl VAT. but it would be extra for painting, flooring etc. depending on what you want after.

    conditions are also a factor, and you would be best off getting a local handyman/carpenter/builder to have a look and give you a price. it sounds a minor job from what you describe, but as with anything, it could be a different story when looked at properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,138 ✭✭✭3DataModem


    Thank you very much for response.
    bruschi wrote: »
    should take 2 lads less than a day really to get it down, out to a skip and the small bit of patching that is needed. Will you be repainting after?

    Yes. Just white walls and ceiling.
    bruschi wrote: »
    and what about the floor finish that is left, are you getting new carpet/floor finish?

    One side is tiled, the other is wood. I guess I'll need a long saddleboard or similar to cover the gap. Looking for something functional.
    bruschi wrote: »
    In its simplest, it should be down and out and a bit of patching to the 2 walls and ceiling for about €350/400 excl VAT.

    When you say "a bit of patching" does that mean basically plastering the gap and skimming so it's smooth from room to room?
    bruschi wrote: »
    but it would be extra for painting, flooring etc. depending on what you want after.

    Roughly how much for a saddle or divider to be supplied and fit?
    bruschi wrote: »
    conditions are also a factor, and you would be best off getting a local handyman/carpenter/builder to have a look and give you a price. it sounds a minor job from what you describe, but as with anything, it could be a different story when looked at properly.

    Got it. I had a guy in to do an attic conversion recently and he did an a superb job (the finish was unbelievable). I might ask him if his lads have a quiet ay to sort it out.

    Also... quick question... in your experience can you go wall to wall (i.e. no remnant of wall) with a stud or do you need to leave a bit behind?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 4,149 Mod ✭✭✭✭bruschi


    3DataModem wrote: »
    Thank you very much for response.

    Yes. Just white walls and ceiling.

    One side is tiled, the other is wood. I guess I'll need a long saddleboard or similar to cover the gap. Looking for something functional.

    When you say "a bit of patching" does that mean basically plastering the gap and skimming so it's smooth from room to room?

    Roughly how much for a saddle or divider to be supplied and fit?

    Got it. I had a guy in to do an attic conversion recently and he did an a superb job (the finish was unbelievable). I might ask him if his lads have a quiet ay to sort it out.

    Also... quick question... in your experience can you go wall to wall (i.e. no remnant of wall) with a stud or do you need to leave a bit behind?

    No problems!

    The patching that will most likley be required is that it is probable that the ends of the wall will be fixed to the blockwork part of the wall (assuming that the wall spans to block walls). So when this timber is pulled out, it will leave some small holes, scuffs etc, and depending on how it was installed, you read it right that a bit of skim or filler will be needed to leave an even finish where the stud had been. You will need to repaint, and if you repaint a 100mm strip up a wall, accross a ceiling, and back down a wall, it will be noticable, so its probably inevitable, you may have to repaint both rooms. Again, conditions there will determine this.

    Again, assuming there will be a bit of a gap on the floor, you may need to fill in the floor first (to get it up to a level similar to the timber/tiled finish), before putting down a saddle board. Might not take much, and might not be needed, but you could allow for a bag of filler, €25 or so, and approx €15/m for a saddle board. Again, the finish of such will determine the price, but for what it seems you are looking for, €50 should cover you. Shouldnt really take up much more time to do something this simple, so its just material costs to add in.

    It would be much simpler to pull the whole lot out, rather than leave a bit. There would be far more work involved in trying to splice it at the right point, then plaster the ends and paint that, instead of just ripping the whole lot out. I couldnt see any reason why it cant be pulled out from wall to wall.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    just to add to what brushi has penned, the ceiling may be a bit messy as well, depends how it was done, in some cases the ceiling in 2 rooms were slabbed in one go and then the wall added, it meant u could decide, as a buyer if u wanted it split or not.

    If u are any way handy and it is coming out anyway then u could always do a bit of exploration in one of the top corners, gentle like, non-Rambo just to see.
    You might even keep going and get someone just in to finish

    If doing the exploration have a stanley knife to cut along the wall/wall/ and wall/ceiling corner joints to cut any scrim mesh/tape that might have be used


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