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Astra won't start - Clicking noise

  • 27-09-2012 04:19PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12


    Hi,
    I have a 56 Astra 1.9. Yesterday, after driving fine in the morning, it just refused to start in the afternoon, instead there is a loud clicking noise when the ignition key is turned and the engine doesn't make any attempt to turn.

    Recovery came out and he tried to start with his jump leads, but nothing. Bump started first time and drove over an hour fine with radio and lights on. Switched off and won't re-start again unless bump started...

    Think its starter motor but would like some input before buy the parts, and see if anyone else has had this trouble.

    Thanks :)


«1

Comments

  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Either battery or starter. Get battery tested.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    If it won't start with jump leads then it isn't the battery. Almost certainly the starter motor, either seized or the Bendix drive sticking. Also possibly the copper braid that earths the starter motor -- they do corrode away in time leaving no earth circuit so no current through the motor. I would take off the starter and check if it can turn freely (and if not, free it). Ensure that the earth braid is OK and that the cable connection from the battery is not corroded. Check the Bendix drive and free it if necessary (but don't lubricate it!). If all else fails, buy a service exchange starter -- they are readily available.

    Being able to bump start it bypasses the starter motor and proves that the battery is OK.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,080 ✭✭✭✭Big Nasty


    OP when you turn the key to pos. II to the lights illuminate on your dash? Or are they dull?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭sambucus


    I'd take the leads off the battery give them a good clean with sandpaper including posts then Vaseline to stop any further corrosion. Jump start then a 15 min drive.
    First thing to do before anything else IMO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,069 ✭✭✭✭CiniO


    I'd also say most likely it's the starter motor, or it's connection.

    PS - 56 astra? Did they really do astras over 50 years ago? :D


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  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    ART6 wrote: »
    If it won't start with jump leads then it isn't the battery. ..................Being able to bump start it bypasses the starter motor and proves that the battery is OK.

    Quite often a flat battery won't start with jump leads.
    Being able to bump start it does not prove the battery is ok, once there's enough to turn the dash lights on etc a very much discharged battery won't prevent bump starting :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,069 ✭✭✭✭CiniO


    ART6 wrote: »
    Being able to bump start it bypasses the starter motor and proves that the battery is OK.

    No it doesn't.
    You should be easily able to bump start any car with completely flat battery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 890 ✭✭✭lifer_sean


    CiniO wrote: »
    I'd also say most likely it's the starter motor, or it's connection.

    PS - 56 astra? Did they really do astras over 50 years ago? :D

    On a UK "56" plate maybe ???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,069 ✭✭✭✭CiniO


    RoverJames wrote: »
    Quite often a flat battery won't start with jump leads.

    If the battery was flat, he most likely wouldn't hear a loud clicking noise when trying to start. This proves most likely it's the problem with a starter itself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,069 ✭✭✭✭CiniO


    lifer_sean wrote: »
    On a UK "56" plate maybe ???

    I know that's why I included this: :D

    But it sounds funny to say he's got 56 Astra on Irish forum, where many people might have no clue what it means.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    Tested the battery and its reading 12.71 so not that... all the lights come on when I turn the ignition on too and I managed to drive over an hour with full lights on and radio so I know its not the altinator. Away to take the starter out and see whats happens with it... Thanks for all your comments so far...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    CiniO wrote: »
    I know that's why I included this: :D

    But it sounds funny to say he's got 56 Astra on Irish forum, where many people might have no clue what it means.

    Sorry but I am Scottish and I never realised it was an Irish forum... for who doesn't know it's a 2006! And its SHE! :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,192 ✭✭✭kennethsmyth


    slouise14 wrote: »
    Tested the battery and its reading 12.71 so not that... all the lights come on when I turn the ignition on too and I managed to drive over an hour with full lights on and radio so I know its not the altinator. Away to take the starter out and see whats happens with it... Thanks for all your comments so far...


    Hi almost its either the pinion of the starter not firing out to make contact with the flywheel or the starter motor. If the starter motor is accessible (only two bolts) take it off and clean up the plates that the brushes make contact with and wd40 it up. With the wet weather its probably either stuck or gunk on starter motor. Had to do this on my old escort and worked perfectly ever since.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,747 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    Has to be the starter. If the battery was flat you wouldn't normally hear clicking, just a dull whirr from the starter as the battery makes a feeble attempt to turn it.

    OP, park the car on a level surface, put it in 3rd or 4th gear, let off the handbrake and rock the car backwards and forwards, that will free the bendix and it might then start.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭sambucus


    Really. that loud clicking problem is so familiar to me 100% of the time it's corroded terminals in my experience. The starter draws way more current than anything else which is why you still have lights etc and charge in your battery.
    Not saying it will fix it but its way easier to clean terminals than take out the starter as RJ is right too
    JMO


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    Right, have taken starter out (it was turnin free) and connected it straight to battery and it runs fine. Wires going to it seem fine too, no corrosion... So now I really need help :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,650 ✭✭✭✭minidazzler


    As stated earlier, check all the wiring. Terminals, posts and earth wires/lead and cable leading to starter. Give them a good clean with wire brush or sandpaper and make sure they all make good tight contact.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    ART6 wrote: »

    Being able to bump start it bypasses the starter motor and proves that the battery is OK.

    That wont prove the battery is ok.

    The solenoid clicking will indicate that the battery is not totally flat, but a car can push start with a flat battery.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    sambucus wrote: »
    Really. that loud clicking problem is so familiar to me 100% of the time it's corroded terminals in my experience. The starter draws way more current than anything else which is why you still have lights etc and charge in your battery.
    Not saying it will fix it but its way easier to clean terminals than take out the starter as RJ is right too
    JMO

    That clicking happens every time a car is started, and is the solenoid engaging the starter pinion and closing the electrical contacts that actually energise the starter motor, we just cant hear it clearly as the engine is turning over the instant the solenoid electrical contacts close. The starter not turning can be bad connection of starter earth, or 12v connection to the starter loose, starter motor brushes, starter stuck, or battery discharged below the amount needed to turn the starter.

    A typical starter motor in a 1,4l car draws about 80 or 90 odd amps when turning, and considerably more at the instant of starting. A 55 watt headlamp bulb takes about 4.5 amps for comparison.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    slouise14 wrote: »
    Right, have taken starter out (it was turnin free) and connected it straight to battery and it runs fine. Wires going to it seem fine too, no corrosion... So now I really need help :(

    Well if it was worn brushes for example, it might run with no load on it, but not when in the car trying to turn the engine over.

    Try putting it back in, and the act of re connecting the terminations might get it going if the connections were the problem.

    And check main battery terminals are tight, although that wouldn`t of prevented jump starting from working, once the jump leads were well connected at both ends.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Well if it was worn brushes for example, it might run with no load on it, but not when in the car trying to turn the engine over.

    Try putting it back in, and the act of re connecting the terminations might get it going if the connections were the problem.

    And check main battery terminals are tight, although that wouldn`t of prevented jump starting from working, once the jump leads were well connected at both ends.

    Hiya. Battery terminals are very tight. I've ordered a new starter and getting it tomorrow at a hefty price tag, so will soon find out if its the starter I suppose. The guy from Vauxhall told me the starter motor is not a common fault at all, and that he could safely say he hadn't had any in to sort which has worried me, cuz as I say the the wiring etc and battery seem fine :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    I have been looking around and seen a few people comment on the ignition being buggared.... Stupid question but would the solenoid click if this was the case?

    Just asking as my car was in getting the horn fixed last week, and they were in about the stearing colum and just want to rule that out...

    Really apprecialte all the comments btw... :)


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    slouise14 wrote: »
    Tested the battery and its reading 12.71 so not that... .........

    Car wasn't running though so presumably that 12.71V is from a DVM across the unloaded battery?

    You need to loadtest the battery before deciding it's not the issue imo.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,042 ✭✭✭Bpmull


    We had a mazda that clicked like that it's not the battery just the starter motor. Really old trick sometimes it works. Put the car in second gear and rock it from side to side this often helps the starter motor don't know how and it sound stupid but often temporarily helps the problem. But it is highly likely it is the starter motor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    RoverJames wrote: »
    Car wasn't running though so presumably that 12.71V is from a DVM across the unloaded battery?

    You need to loadtest the battery before deciding it's not the issue imo.

    Battery fired up the starter when connected directly via jump leads... Is that not technically a load test?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    slouise14 wrote: »
    Battery fired up the starter when connected directly via jump leads... Is that not technically a load test?

    Not really, as an unloaded starter motor would not take near as much current (except at very instant of connecting, for miliseconds) as one turning or trying to turn an engine.

    If the solenoid is clicking, then the ignition key switch is fine, in answer to your previous post.


  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    slouise14 wrote: »
    ............ Is that not technically a load test?

    No

    Think of the windy up starters from years back, imagine turning one when it's actually not turning the engine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Bpmull wrote: »
    We had a mazda that clicked like that it's not the battery just the starter motor. Really old trick sometimes it works. Put the car in second gear and rock it from side to side this often helps the starter motor don't know how and it sound stupid but often temporarily helps the problem. But it is highly likely it is the starter motor.

    Solenoids sometimes click due to low battery. A failed starter motor is just one possibility, but not the only one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 slouise14


    Aw I hate this :(

    New starter coming tomorrow so will fit it up and see (pray) it works... but I don't think it will!

    Another point, on the casing of the starter there is 2 rubbed bits like something been sitting on and rubbing, could that be shorting the starter in anyways?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    slouise14 wrote: »
    Aw I hate this :(

    New starter coming tomorrow so will fit it up and see (pray) it works... but I don't think it will!
    If it happened to be a bad connection onto the starter motor that was the problem, and im not saying it was, then fitting the new one will fix that problem by virtue of the terminals being re-tightened, and make it look like the old starter motor was faulty.

    As roverjames pointed out to do with load testing, someone testing the battery with a digital meter, and then try starting it while still reading the meter, can tell a lot about the battery, and if the starter was putting any load on it.


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